At the 9th China International Import Expo (CIIE), which concluded on November 10, 2026, at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (NECC) in Shanghai, China, French beauty giant L’Oréal unveiled the latest milestone in its glycan-based anti-aging research. Targeting mature skin with anti-wrinkle, firming, and deep nourishing benefits, the group globally launched its new Age Perfect Golden Age (金致驭龄) collection, comprising a cream, a freshly infused oil mask, and an oil-infused microbead serum.
Examining the product architecture and formulation synergy on display at the consumer goods pavilion, the three SKUs form a cohesive delivery system:
Age Perfect Golden Age Cream & Freshly Infused Oil Mask: Both formulas are the first to incorporate Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate (INCI: Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate), a proprietary enzymatically hydrolyzed ingredient developed by Chinese synthetic biology firm Shenzhen Boyin Biotechnology (internationally branded as PAM²L, headquartered in Shenzhen, Guangdong Province, China). Within this regimen, the oil mask creates a lipid-occlusive barrier to enhance penetration, while the cream delivers sustained barrier repair.
Oil-Infused Microbead Serum: Formulated with high-molecular-weight Sodium Colanate (INCI: Sodium Colanate), this serum utilizes microfluidics to encapsulate essential oils into micron-sized droplets. By precisely regulating interfacial tension between oil and water phases through microchannels, the technology forms surfactant-free membrane capsules that preserve lipophilic actives and burst upon application to deliver a burst of hydration alongside active transdermal delivery.
On the regulatory front, the Oil-Infused Microbead Serum completed cosmetic notification with China’s National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) in September 2026, while applications for the cream and oil mask are currently under review. Notably, on the exact day of the Shanghai launch, L’Oréal officially announced a strategic investment in PAM²L to co-develop next-generation bioactive ingredients.
Deep-Dive Ingredient Analysis: The Evolution from Pro-Xylane to Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate
To objectively evaluate the scientific merit of this novel compound, it is helpful to compare it against L’Oréal’s flagship anti-aging molecule—Pro-Xylane—across four core dimensions: chemical profile, molecular structure, manufacturing process, and biological targets.
1. Chemical Profiles & Structural Differences
Sodium Colanate (INCI: Sodium Colanate) & Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate (INCI: Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate): Sodium Colanate is an anionic exopolysaccharide (EPS) synthesized via microbial fermentation. Structural elucidation indicates its polysaccharide backbone consists of monosaccharide units—including glucose, fucose, galactose, and glucuronic acid—linked via glycosidic bonds. Its typical repeating unit comprises six monosaccharide residues modified with acetyl and pyruvyl groups. Unhydrolyzed, high-molecular-weight Sodium Colanate spans a broad molecular weight range (10–6,000 kDa per patent filings) and was initially utilized primarily as a humectant and physical skin barrier protectant. Through directed enzymatic hydrolysis, PAM²L uses specific hydrolases to cleave glycosidic bonds and tighten the polydispersity index (PDI), yielding narrow-distribution oligomeric sodium colanate (focused on the 1–10 kDa range, with the 1–3 kDa and 3–10 kDa fractions demonstrating pronounced bioactivity in cellular assays).
Physicochemical Profile of Pro-Xylane (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol):
CAS Registry Number:
868156-46-1PubChem CID:
59696975IUPAC Name:
(2S,3R,4S,5R)-2-((S)-2-Hydroxypropyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol (S-stereoisomer)Molecular Formula & Weight:$\text{C}_8\text{H}_{16}\text{O}_5$, with an exact molecular weight of
192.21 g/mol (Da)Structural Nature: A synthetic, xylose-derived small molecule featuring a well-defined oxygenated six-membered ring (C-glycoside backbone).
Key Technical Distinction: Even after enzymatic cleavage, Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate remains a chain of oligomeric polysaccharides with varying degrees of polymerization—meaning its actual molecular size is still larger than the single-molecule192.21 DaPro-Xylane. Industry references to its “lower molecular weight” are strictly relative to native, high-molecular-weight Sodium Colanate (10–6,000 kDa), though this size reduction substantially improves retention and permeation within the stratum corneum.
2. Mechanisms of Action: From Extracellular Matrix (ECM) to Mitochondrial Homeostasis
Pro-Xylane’s Established Pathway: Since L’Oréal introduced Pro-Xylane in 2006 (deploying it across Lancôme, Helena Rubinstein, SkinCeuticals, and L’Oréal Paris) and upgraded it to Pro-Xylane PRO in 2022, research has centered on stimulating glycosaminoglycan (GAG) and proteoglycan synthesis, reinforcing the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), and remodeling the extracellular matrix (ECM).
Sodium Colanate’s Multi-Pathway Expansion: According to published patent data and foundational biological studies, the Sodium Colanate family not only stimulates Type I and Type III collagen synthesis and strengthens the skin barrier, but also modulates classic cellular energy, oxidative stress, and longevity pathways—including NAMPT, SIRT1, AMPK, and mTOR. Laboratory findings further demonstrate potential in scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), downregulating inflammatory cytokines, and maintaining mitochondrial dynamic homeostasis, bridging the gap between surface hydration and cellular microenvironment regulation.
Patent Efficacy Data & Toxicological Safety Assessment
In compliance with Chinese regulatory standards, PAM²L has completed new cosmetic ingredient notifications with the NMPA (verifiable via the public NMPA Cosmetic Ingredient Filing Platform): native Sodium Colanate was registered in November 2023 (
国妆原备字20230056), followed by Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate in May 2025 (国妆原备字20250064). Under NMPA mandates, both ingredients underwent comprehensive toxicological safety evaluations—including acute oral/dermal toxicity, skin irritation, and skin sensitization testing—and are manufactured via a low-endotoxin fermentation and purification process suited for compromised, mature skin.On the efficacy front, PAM²L disclosed the following experimental metrics in Chinese patent
CN118593537A and international PCT patent WO2025166972A1 (European counterpart EP4623895A1):| Ingredient Form | Patent Reference | Study Model & Conditions | Key Reported Efficacy Metrics |
| Native Sodium Colanate | Chinese PatentCN118593537A (Published 2024) | Human Clinical Trial: 31 subjects applied a serum containing 0.15% active twice daily (AM/PM) for 4 weeks | • Crow’s feet wrinkle length reduced by 38.03%, wrinkle count decreased by 35.68%
• Stratum corneum hydration increased by 33.35%, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) reduced by 19.84%
• Skin erythema (hemoglobin) index decreased by 33.03% |
| Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate (Oligomeric) | International PatentWO2025166972A1 (Published 2025) | Standard In-Vitro Cellular Assay: Tested at 2 mg/mL (1–3 kDa fraction) vs. equal concentration of Pro-Xylane | • Stimulated Type I collagen synthesis at approximately 4x the rate of Pro-Xylane |
| Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate (Oligomeric) | International PatentWO2025166972A1 (Published 2025) | UV-Photoaging In-Vitro Assay: Post-UV irradiation at 2 mg/mL vs. equal concentration of Pro-Xylane | • Stimulated Type I collagen synthesis at 2.3x the rate of Pro-Xylane
• Stimulated Type III collagen synthesis at 2.8x the rate of Pro-Xylane |
| Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate (Oligomeric) | International PatentWO2025166972A1 (Published 2025) | Human Clinical Trial: 66 subjects (aged 30–60), randomized, applying a 0.5% active serum for 28 days | • Skin elasticity (R2 parameter) improved by 40%
• Dermal density increased by 24%
• Collagen fiber harmonic intensity increased by 21.61%
• Stratum corneum hydration increased by 63.84% |
(Note: The “4x Pro-Xylane” figure stems from controlled in-vitro cellular assays at a specific concentration. Please refer to the Scientific Disclaimer below regarding the translational limitations between in-vitro data and finished topical cosmetics.)
Formulator’s Perspective: Regimen Layering & Compatibility
For formulators and ingredient-savvy consumers integrating Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate into daily routines, its anionic oligomeric polysaccharide structure offers high tolerability and broad formulation compatibility:
Buffering High-Potency Actives: Because Sodium Colanate forms a breathable, hydrating film that reinforces barrier function, layering it beneath retinoids (retinol/retinal) or exfoliating acids (AHAs/BHAs) in evening routines can help mitigate irritation and curb TEWL. Recommended layering order: Cleanser → Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate Serum (hydrating buffer) → Retinoid Treatment → Occlusive Moisturizer.
Pairing with Peptides: Both oligomeric polysaccharides and signal/carrier peptides are water-soluble, skin-compatible bioactives with minimal risk of pH incompatibility or charge-induced precipitation, making them an ideal daytime pairing for gentle, multi-targeted anti-aging care.
Global Landscape: China’s Synthetic Biology Supply Chain in Beauty
Academic research into microbial fermentation of colanic acid has gained steady international traction over the past decade.
Korea University (Seoul, South Korea) filed a patent in 2019 (granted in 2021) utilizing mutant Escherichia coli strains for colanic acid production, while Jiangnan University (Wuxi, Jiangsu Province, China) filed a patent in 2021 for high-yield recombinant E. coli fermentation.
In 2022, researchers publishing in the peer-reviewed journal Microorganisms (Vol. 10, Issue 5) demonstrated that combinatorial metabolic engineering coupled with enzymatic catalysis could push low-molecular-weight colanic acid titers to
24.99 g/L in a 3L bioreactor.Translating lab-scale fermentation titers into commercial-grade cosmetic actives that meet global beauty conglomerates’ strict specifications is where China’s synthetic biology supply chain has carved out a distinct competitive edge. Industry analyses by McKinsey and Euromonitor highlight a structural shift toward bio-fermentation and green chemistry over traditional petrochemical synthesis and animal-derived extracts.
Following the path of Bloomage Biotech (headquartered in Jinan, Shandong Province, China)—which established global leadership in hyaluronic acid through molecular weight fractionation and chemical derivatization—Shenzhen-based PAM²L (marketing its raw material line under the Colamin brand) has leveraged high-yield, low-endotoxin cellular factories and precision enzymatic hydrolysis to break into Tier-1 international beauty supply chains.
L’Oréal’s strategic equity stake in PAM²L and rapid commercial rollout of Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate not only expands the French group’s glycan anti-aging platform from synthetic monosaccharide derivatives into complex microbial bioactive polysaccharides, but also establishes a replicable commercialization blueprint for Chinese synthetic biology ingredients entering the global prestige beauty market.
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References & Data Sources
1.Chinese Patent on Native Sodium Colanate Anti-Aging Efficacy (
CN118593537A) — China National Intellectual Property Administration (CNIPA) / Google Patents: Use of composition containing colanate.2.International PCT & European Patent on Hydrolyzed Sodium Colanate (
WO2025166972A1 / EP4623895A1) — European Patent Office (EPO) / Google Patents: Composition comprising hydrolyzed colanic acid salt and use.3.Industrial Purification Process Patent (
CN114957509B) — Shenzhen Boyin Biotechnology Co., Ltd. / Google Patents: A scalable purification method for colanic acid.4.Peer-Reviewed Study on Metabolic Engineering & Enzymatic Production of Colanic Acid (2022) — Li, S., et al. (2022). Combinatorial Metabolic Engineering and Enzymatic Catalysis Enable Efficient Production of Colanic Acid. Microorganisms, 10(5), 877. DOI:
10.3390/microorganisms10050877.5.Foundational Study on Colanic Acid, Mitochondrial Homeostasis & Longevity (Cell, 2017) — Han, B., et al. (2017). Microbial Genetic Composition Tunes Host Longevity. Cell, 169(7), 1249–1262. PMID:
28622510.6.AAAS Science Report on Colanic Acid Longevity Signaling — Baylor College of Medicine / ScienceDaily: Gut bacteria might one day help slow down aging process.
7.Commercial Coverage of L’Oréal’s Strategic Investment in PAM²L — Jing Daily (October 2026): L’Oréal takes 7.13% stake in Shenzhen biotech Pam²L.
8.Venture & Biomaterials Platform Record for PAM²L — Dealroom.co (November 2026): L’Oréal, Walgreens back China biomaterials startup PAM2L in $30M round.
9.Clinical Formulation Study on Pro-Xylane (Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol) — PubMed Central (
PMC12871497): The Application of a Formulation Containing Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol (HPT) and Niacinamide (NAM).10.Independent Cosmetic Ingredient Reference for Pro-Xylane — Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary: Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol.
Disclaimer
Disclaimer: This article is provided strictly for informational, educational, and industry analysis purposes and does not constitute medical, dermatological, or professional skincare advice. Efficacy comparisons cited herein—including the 4x Type I collagen synthesis metric for hydrolyzed sodium colanate relative to Pro-Xylane—are derived from in-vitro cellular assays (tested at2 mg/mL) and small-scale raw-material clinical studies disclosed in published patent filings (CN118593537A,WO2025166972A1). Due to the physiological complexity of the human stratum corneum barrier, finished formula concentrations, and delivery systems, in-vitro laboratory results do not directly equate to the clinical performance of finished topical cosmetics. Individuals with sensitive skin or pre-existing dermatological conditions should consult a board-certified dermatologist before introducing new active ingredients. This report was independently compiled from public patent records, peer-reviewed literature, and trade show disclosures, with no financial sponsorship or endorsement from L’Oréal, PAM²L (Shenzhen Boyin Biotechnology), or any affiliated entities.
