HMOs in Skincare: How Glycare™ SK Improves the Skin’s Immune Barrier?

To repair the skin barrier, manufacturers previously focused on replenishing oil and water, much like “painting a wall.” However, industry raw material giants are now driving a new strategy: true repair begins with improving the skin’s immune barrier.

In 2026, global dermatology continues to delve into the mechanistic level, transforming traditional measures that could only provide surface-level repair. Today, technical competition for skin barrier repair has become a complex systemic engineering project—one that relies not only on the coordination of multiple ingredients but also forms a technical “moat” for manufacturers.

Recently, the raw material giant dsm-firmenich officially launched Glycare™ SK, a brand-new platform based on Human Milk Oligosaccharides (HMOs). The simultaneously released core ingredients, Glycare™ SK Renew and Glycare™ SK Comfort, directly push skin barrier repair into a new stage of endogenous immunity and microbiome regulation.

Part 01: From Surface Repair to Deep Regulation of the Skin Barrier

For a long time, the international skincare industry’s brief understanding of the skin barrier was primarily based on the “Brick and Mortar” model [1]. In reality, however, the characteristics of the skin are far more complex than this model suggests.

Regarding the traditional path: Most manufacturers repair the skin barrier by replenishing ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. While this targeted replenishment logic is effective, it essentially treats the symptoms rather than the root cause—the underlying issues remain unresolved.

The deep-seated problem exposed here is: Modern biomedical research has found that for recurring skin sensitivity and barrier damage, the root cause lies in the over-activation of skin immune responses and the imbalance of the microbiome [2]. These deep-seated issues cannot be resolved through traditional skincare paths.

According to research in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, when the epidermis is damaged, keratinocytes release signaling factors such as IL-1α and TSLP (Thymic Stromal Lymphopoietin) [3]. Furthermore, when the skin barrier is damaged and pH levels rise, Staphylococcus aureus over-proliferates. Research proves that it can directly secrete proteases to degrade skin filaggrin. Regarding this, Nature has published that the microbial diversity in patients with atopic dermatitis (severe sensitivity) is extremely low, often accompanied by the colonization of Staphylococcus aureus [4].

Research from authoritative journals like the Journal of Investigative Dermatology shows that signaling exists between the skin’s commensal flora and keratinocytes. When this balance is disrupted, the skin remains in a highly sensitive and inflammatory state, even if lipids are replenished using traditional methods.

The underlying logic of Glycare™ SK differs from traditional paths. By simulating the protective mechanisms of early life stages, it utilizes the highly bioactive signaling molecule—HMO—to recalibrate the skin’s immune tolerance, allowing the skin to gradually achieve self-regulation.

Part 02: HMO—The “Cross-domain Gem” of Skin Science

Human Milk Oligosaccharides (HMOs) are the third-largest solid component in breast milk.

1. Scientific Mechanism [5]

Scientific literature indicates that HMOs are not a single component but consist of over 200 complex carbohydrate molecules. They possess a unique “decoy receptor” function:

• Anti-adhesion effect: The molecular structure of HMOs is extremely similar to the receptors on the surface of skin cells. Harmful bacteria mistakenly bind to HMO molecules instead of the actual receptors. As a result, the harmful bacteria remain suspended on the skin surface, unable to fix onto cells, and are eventually washed away through normal skin metabolism.

• Immune Regulation: As prebiotics, HMOs selectively promote the growth of beneficial bacteria (such as Bifidobacterium and related subtypes) and directly bind to immune cell receptors to inhibit the release of pro-inflammatory factors [6].

2. Precision Fermentation: From Laboratory to Industrialization

dsm-firmenich utilizes Precision Fermentation to achieve the commercial mass production of two key HMO molecules: 2’-Fucosyllactose (2’-FL) and Lacto-N-neotetraose (LNnT).

Notably, its compliance is outstanding. Although named Human Milk Oligosaccharides, they are not of human origin, making them ethical and high-purity [7]. They use whey by-products as substrates and are produced in Europe using renewable energy.

1) Precision Fermentation

• Step 1: Gene “Programming”: Scientists first study the molecular structure of HMOs in breast milk. Then, the gene fragments capable of synthesizing these sugar molecules are implanted into safe microorganisms.

• Step 2: Efficient “Breeding”: Once modified, these microorganisms possess the specialized skill to mass-produce HMOs. They become “precision machines” specifically for synthesizing 2′-FL or LNnT.

• Step 3: Bio-fermentation: These artificially modified microorganisms are placed into massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. dsm-firmenich cleverly uses lactose from whey as “feed.”

2) Downstream Processing

During production, manufacturers strictly control temperature, pH, and oxygen, allowing the microorganisms to consume lactose and synthesize pure HMO molecules. After fermentation, the tank contains a mix of microorganisms and complex metabolites. To achieve cosmetic-grade high purity, extremely rigorous extraction is required:

• Cell Separation: Microbial cells are removed via methods such as ultrafiltration.

• Decolorization & Demineralization: Pigments and minerals produced during fermentation are removed.

• Fine Purification: The final product contains no human-derived substances and no DNA from the genetically modified microorganisms.

• Crystallization & Drying: The result is a white, high-purity (above 95%-98%) HMO powder or liquid.

Part 03: Clinical Evidence—Data-Backed Safety

The Glycare™ SK platform provides targeted empirical data support for different skin needs:

Glycare™ SK Renew: Deep Repair and Anti-aging

For severely damaged skin, Renew demonstrates skin reconstruction capabilities. In vitro data shows it can significantly increase Type I collagen levels by up to 67%, which not only repairs the barrier but also thickens the dermal matrix.

Clinical Performance (8 weeks):

• TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) decreased by 19%.

• Visible redness decreased by 38%, significantly improving hyperpigmentation and telangiectasia caused by chronic inflammation [8].

Glycare™ SK Comfort: Daily Defense and Long-lasting Soothing

Targeting “fragile skin” issues among urban middle-class consumers, Comfort focuses on maintaining homeostasis.

• Instant Hydration: Skin water content increased by 13% within 4 weeks.

• Barrier Consolidation: Water loss decreased by 16% within 8 weeks.

• Sensitivity Relief: By regulating the microbiome, it significantly reduces stinging sensations caused by external stimuli.

Part 04: Industry Trend Analysis—Are Microbiome + Immunity the Next High Ground?

Currently, HMOs are already a household “star ingredient” in high-end infant formulas. However, in the skincare formulation system, HMOs are still a novelty.

Due to the complex synthesis process of HMOs, which requires not only extreme purity but also stability within formulations, this provides manufacturers with a high technical “moat.”

In summary:

The Glycare™ SK platform from dsm-firmenich is not just the launch of an ingredient, but the delivery of a biomimetic immune repair solution. Its emergence indicates that skincare is moving toward a “Bio-intelligent Era.” For brand owners seeking differentiated competitiveness, HMOs are undoubtedly the next heavyweight component with strong scientific backing and consumer perception, following synthetic biology and recombinant collagen.

Authoritative Reference Sources:

[1] Elias, P. M. (1983). Epidermal barrier function: interpersonal and interspecies variations. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.

[2] Belkaid, Y., & Harrison, O. J. (2017). Homeostatic Immunity and the Microbiota. Immunity.

[3] Ziegler, S. F. (2012). Thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP): a central regulator of allergic diseases. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.

[4] Byrd, A. L., et al. (2018). The human skin microbiome. Nature Reviews Microbiology.

[5] Bode, L. (2012). Human milk oligosaccharides: Every baby needs a sugar mama. Glycobiology.

[6] Triantis, V., et al. (2018). Immunological Effects of Human Milk Oligosaccharides. Frontiers in Pediatrics.

[7] dsm-firmenich Technical White Paper (2025). Precision Fermentation and Downstream Processing of HMOs for Topical Application.

[8] Glycare™ SK Clinical Study Report (2025). Efficacy of 2′-FL and LNnT in Skin Barrier Repair and Redness Reduction.