Surfactants play a key role in daily chemicals and industrial fields, and the market size is constantly increasing.
According to a report by market research company Mordor Intelligence, the global surfactant market size in 2021 is about US$26 billion, and it is expected to reach 300 billion yuan by 2029, with an estimated annual compound growth rate of 3.84%. From a geographical distribution perspective, Asia-Pacific is the main region of the surfactant market, with a current market share of about 40%.
The following are the TOP15 most popular cosmetic surfactant ingredients in 2024, arranged in order of ingredient development time and application, and their uses in the field of cosmetics are analyzed.
1. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)
Sodium lauryl sulfate is a white powder of anionic surfactant, which is easily soluble in water and has strong emulsification and foaming ability. It is widely used in a variety of daily necessities, cosmetics, detergents, etc. However, it is potentially toxic, and high concentrations of SLS can damage the skin and mucous membranes.
Application of SLS in cosmetics:
Eye and lip makeup remover: UKISS eye and lip makeup remover contains sodium lauryl sulfate, which enhances the cleansing ability of makeup remover oil.
Makeup remover cleanser: Four-in-one makeup remover cleanser often contains SLS ingredients, which can reduce the surface tension of water and make it easier for oil to be washed off by water.
Foundation liquid, concealer: In some foundation liquids, sodium lauryl sulfate can be used as an emulsifier to make the product texture uniform and easy to apply.
2. Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)
Sodium laureth sulfate is a powerful cleanser and foaming agent. The synthesis process may produce carcinogenic dioxane, and the raw materials need to be strictly controlled. It has a certain skin irritation and should not be used for a long time on sensitive skin.
Application of SLES in cosmetics
Makeup remover products: a common ingredient in makeup remover oil and makeup remover milk.
Stabilize emulsion system: In foundation, BB cream, CC cream base makeup products, SLES as an emulsifier can make the oil phase and water phase components evenly mixed, and there will be no oil-water stratification phenomenon.
Adjust the texture of cosmetics: Adjust the amount of SLES to make cosmetics products have different textures, such as light emulsion and thick cream.
Prevent microbial growth: It has certain antibacterial properties and prolongs the shelf life of cosmetics.
Keep cosmetic ingredients stable: In the formulation of cosmetic products, SLES can improve the chemical stability of the product and prevent chemical reactions between ingredients.
3. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)
CAPB is derived from low-cost coconut oil and is a mild multifunctional surfactant with cleaning, emulsification, sterilization and antistatic effects.
As consumers’ demand for mild hair and skin care increases, the use of multifunctional surfactants such as CAPB made from natural raw materials has gradually increased.
Application of cocamidopropyl betaine in cosmetics:
Makeup remover: In makeup remover, cocamidopropyl betaine can effectively remove facial makeup, dirt and excess oil.
Emulsification: In cosmetic formulas, CAPB can be used as an ingredient in foundation, BB cream, and CC cream to make the texture of cosmetics more uniform and easy to apply.
Adjust the texture of cosmetics: In mascara and eyeliner, cocamidopropyl betaine can be used as a thickener, which is not easy to smudge.
Moisturize the skin: Adding cocamidopropyl betaine to cosmetics can make users feel moisturized after using cosmetics.
Reduce powder flying during makeup: In eye shadow and blush products, cocamidopropyl betaine can be used as an antistatic agent to prevent powder from agglomerating, thereby reducing powder flying.
4. Stearic acid (C18)
Stearic acid is rarely used as a surfactant alone. It is mostly used in cosmetics for emulsification, light shielding, stabilization, and viscosity adjustment, such as Estee Lauder cleanser. In the development history of the cosmetics industry, stearic acid has always been an important auxiliary ingredient to provide guarantees for product texture and stability, and has been used for a long time.
Application of stearic acid in cosmetics:
Stabilize emulsion system: In foundation, BB cream, and CC cream products, stearate generated by the reaction of stearic acid and alkali is an effective emulsifier to prevent oil and water stratification.
Increase the viscosity of cosmetics: In lipstick and lip gloss makeup products, stearic acid can increase the viscosity of the product, making it less likely to smudge or fade on the lips. In mascara and eyeliner, it can also make the product better applied and fixed on the eyelashes.
Use as a lubricant: In eye shadow, blush, and loose powder products, stearic acid can be used as a lubricant to make the powder more delicate and smooth, easy to apply and smudge. In concealer and contour cream products, it can make the paste softer, smoother and easier to spread.
Used as a film former: In setting spray and waterproof makeup, stearic acid can form a protective film on the skin, increasing the waterproofness and durability of the product.
5. Cocamide DEA
Cocamide DEA is a nonionic surfactant that is easily soluble in water and has good foaming ability. It can be used with other surfactants to enhance the cleaning effect. However, it will generate carcinogenic nitrosamines when it encounters nitrosating agents. CIR believes that it is safe to use in rinse products, and the concentration of resident products does not exceed 10%.
As an excellent nonionic surfactant, cocamide DEA has been widely used in the formulation of cleaning products, but its application is limited due to safety issues.
Application of cocamide DEA in cosmetics:
Stabilize emulsion system: In foundation, BB cream, and CC cream, cocamide DEA can make the oil phase and water phase components evenly mixed and form a stable emulsion structure.
As a thickener: In mascara and eyeliner products, cocamide DEA can increase the viscosity of cosmetics, facilitate application and shaping, and reduce smudging.
Disperse pigments: In eye shadow and blush, cocamide DEA helps to evenly disperse pigments, making the colors more vivid and uniform.
As a moisturizer: Cocamide DEA can form a moisturizing film on the skin to prevent moisture loss from the skin.
6. Cocoyl monoethanolamine
Also known as cocamide MEA, it is used for cleansing and bathing, foaming, emulsification, and strong stability. In addition, it has good moisturizing effect, low irritation, and is suitable for all skin types.
Similar to cocamide DEA, based on the demand for mild cleansing and bathing products, cocamide monoethanolamine has gradually become a common ingredient and is being continuously improved.
7. Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI)
Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate is an anionic amino acid surfactant with low toxicity, low irritation, and biodegradable, and has both antibacterial and anti-corrosion effects. Moreover, it is easy to produce a lot of foam, is skin-friendly, and can also resist oxidation and prevent skin roughness.
With the rise of concepts such as environmental protection and gentle skin care, INCI has gradually gained favor, and its market share has steadily increased in recent years.
Application of INCI in cosmetics:
Cleaning and makeup removal: In makeup remover oil, makeup remover milk, and makeup remover water products, INCI can reduce the surface tension between makeup and skin, making it easier to disperse the oil, dirt and pigment in the makeup, thereby achieving a good makeup removal effect.
Disperse pigments: In cosmetics such as eye shadow, blush, and lipstick, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate makes the colors more vivid.
As a solubilizer: In cosmetics, some fragrances, preservatives, and antioxidants are not easy to dissolve. INCI has a good solubilizing effect and helps in the design of product formulas.
Improve product mildness: INCI has low irritation and good skin compatibility. In cosmetics for sensitive areas of the eyes and lips, using it can reduce the occurrence of allergic reactions and make the product safer and milder.
8. Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS)
Ammonium lauryl sulfate is a white gel-like sulfate surfactant with good water solubility, stability and biodegradability. It is used in cosmetics to clean and foam, remove oil and produce foam.
As a new member of sulfate surfactants, ALS has good performance and biodegradability, and has expanded its application in many industries. However, it was applied relatively late in the cosmetics field.
Application of ALS in cosmetics:
In makeup removers, base makeup and makeup products, ammonium lauryl sulfate has good cleaning and makeup removal, pigment dispersion, and can also effectively stabilize the emulsion system.
In addition, it can increase the rich foam of the product. For example, in cleansing foam-type makeup removers, ammonium lauryl sulfate can produce rich and delicate foam, increase the contact area between the product and the skin, make the makeup removal effect better, and bring consumers a good user experience.
9. Lauric acid
Lauric acid is a saturated fatty acid in the form of white crystalline powder with antibacterial and moisturizing skin care effects. It was mainly used in industry in the early days, and then slowly entered the skin care field with the exploration of functional ingredients in skin care products.
Application of lauric acid in cosmetics:
In makeup removers, base makeup and color makeup products, lauric acid has good cleaning and makeup removal, pigment dispersion, emulsion system stabilization, and emulsion texture adjustment.
In addition, it can improve the feel of use because lauric acid has a certain lubricity. Adding lauric acid to color makeup products can make users feel smoother and reduce the pulling feeling when applying cosmetics, especially when using eye shadow, blush, and loose powder.
10. Myristic acid
Myristic acid is a fatty acid used as a flavor ingredient. It is similar to lauric acid and has gradually expanded from industrial use to the field of daily chemicals, with a long history of application. However, in recent years, the number of myristic acid users has declined due to raw material supply and market competition.
Application of myristic acid in color makeup:
Applied in color makeup products, myristic acid has good cleaning and makeup removal, pigment dispersion, emulsion system stabilization, emulsion texture adjustment, skin moisturizing and extended shelf life.
11. Decyl glucoside
Decyl glucoside is a new type of nonionic surfactant with both anionic and cationic surfactant properties. Decyl glucoside is a colorless liquid with good water solubility, low tension and high foaming properties. In addition, its performance is more stable, it has strong wetting, is acid and alkali resistant, and is green and non-toxic.
Decyl glucoside belongs to a new generation of green surfactants, which are environmentally friendly, safe and efficient. In recent years, the market attention has increased rapidly and its application has grown rapidly.
Application of decyl glucoside in cosmetics:
Applied in mild makeup removal products: In makeup remover oil, makeup remover milk and makeup remover water, it can effectively remove facial makeup.
Enhance product safety: Decyl glucoside has low allergy and is gentle on the skin and eyes. Moreover, decyl glucoside is often derived from natural raw materials such as glucose and fatty alcohols, which is degradable and more environmentally friendly.
12. Coconut Glucoside
Coconut Glucoside is a green nonionic surfactant that is acid and alkali resistant, less irritating, has good compatibility, and has slightly weak cleaning ability. It is often used with other surfactants. It appeared at the same time as decyl glucoside and plays a role in gentle cleaning and auxiliary emulsification in cosmetic formulas.
Application of Coconut Glucoside in Cosmetics:
Cleansing and Makeup Removal: In makeup remover oil, coconut glucoside can effectively remove stubborn waterproof makeup.
Emulsifier: In foundation, BB cream, and CC cream products, coconut glucoside ingredients can prevent oil and water stratification in the product.
Dissolve active ingredients: In cosmetic products, it can help dissolve vitamins, antioxidants, fragrances and other ingredients.
Improve product mildness: Coconut glucoside has low irritation to the skin and eyes, and is suitable for people with sensitive skin. It is natural, mild, and environmentally friendly, which helps to improve the market competitiveness of products.
13. Sodium lauroyl glutamate
Sodium lauroyl glutamate is an amino acid surfactant, mild and non-irritating, easy to dissolve, weakly acidic, so it is more skin-friendly, has strong foaming and cleansing, and is good at moisturizing. With the in-depth study of skin microecology and mild skin care, this type of ingredient is becoming more and more important.
As a high-quality hypoallergenic surfactant, sodium lauroyl glutamate can also be used in mascara and eyebrow pencil formulas. Sodium lauroyl glutamate helps to condition the texture of eyelashes and eyebrows, making them softer and smoother, and reducing damage to eyelashes.
14. Sodium cocoyl glycinate
Sodium cocoyl glycinate is synthesized from glycine and coconut oil fatty acids, neutral to weakly alkaline. In the application of cosmetics, it has the function of cleaning and conditioning the skin, and the foam is smooth and elastic. Similar to sodium lauroyl glutamate, it is based on the advantages of combining amino acids with natural oils and is widely used in the fields of cleansing and bath cosmetics.
As a high-quality hypoallergenic surfactant, it can also help improve the durability of makeup. For example, in setting spray and waterproof makeup, sodium oleoyl glycinate can cooperate with other film-forming ingredients to form a uniform protective film on the skin surface, enhancing the waterproofness and durability of the makeup.
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