Traditional preservatives are gradually being replaced by natural alternatives because they may cause harm to the skin.
Many people know that some formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are clear skin allergens and cause irritation to the skin. Some other preservatives, such as parabens, may interfere with the endocrine system and affect the body’s hormone balance.
Nowadays, the number of natural preservative products approved by COSMOS is increasing, which can not only dispel consumers’ concerns about purchasing, but also increase the shelf life of cosmetics.
According to statistics, common natural preservatives come from three sources: plants, animals and microorganisms, and they have their own advantages and scope of application. Although the extraction technology of natural preservatives is not perfect, which affects its popularity, we cannot underestimate its huge potential in the future.
This article lists the information, characteristics and application scope of the 12 best natural preservatives for cosmetics abroad.
1. Natural preservatives:Euxyl® K903
INCI: benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, tocopherol
Solubility: partially water-soluble
PH stability: 3 – 6 (lowering its PH value will be more effective)
Recommended dosage: 0.4-1.2%
Product introduction: Euxyl® K903 is a liquid preservative that has a strong broad-spectrum bactericidal effect on bacteria, yeasts and molds, and can be effective at low concentrations. This type of preservative has lipophilic ingredients. At 20°C, 100 grams of water can dissolve 1.2 grams of Euxyl® K903.
Application reference: Euxyl® K903 is lipophilic and partially water-soluble, suitable for use in oil-based makeup products, such as oily eye shadow and waterproof mascara. It can be effective at low concentrations, can well control the formula cost, and does not affect the preservative effect.
Disadvantages: Euxyl® K903 has limited water solubility, solubilizers need to be added when applied, which increases the cost of raw material procurement and makes the production process more complicated. In addition, you also need to consider the pH compatibility of other ingredients to avoid changes in product texture.
In addition, although Euxyl® K903 is an approved preservative ingredient, consumers today pay more and more attention to cosmetic ingredients and may have doubts about complex formula names.
2. Verstatil® TBG MB (Natural preservatives)
INCI: triethyl citrate, caprylic acid glyceryl, benzoic acid
Solubility: insoluble in water
PH stability: 4 – 6
Recommended dosage: 1.0-1.5%
Product introduction: Verstatil® TBG MB is insoluble in water and requires a solubilizer when mixed with water-based and emulsions. Verstatil® TBG MB is effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, but has limited effect on molds.
Application reference: Because it is insoluble in water, Verstatil® TBG MB is suitable for use in water-based makeup products. For example, when using this formula in colored eyeliner and moisturizing lip gloss, a solubilizer is required. However, it has a good inhibitory effect on Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and yeast, which can extend the shelf life of cosmetics.
Disadvantages: Verstatil® TBG MB has limited effect on molds and is not suitable for cosmetics rich in nutrients, such as creams, lotions, or makeup products containing sugars and proteins.
3. Leucidal® SF MAX (natural preservative)
INCI: Lactobacillus ferment
Solubility: Water-soluble
PH stability: 3 – 8
Recommended dosage: 2.0-4.0%
Product introduction: Leucidal® SF MAX is a natural preservative fermented from lactic acid bacteria. It provides broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection and works better when used with enhancers such as AMTicide Coconut.
Application reference: Leucidal® SF MAX has good water solubility and is suitable for a variety of cosmetic types, such as blush and loose powder.
Disadvantages: Compared with other preservatives, the dosage of Leucidal® SF MAX is relatively high, which increases the cost of formula procurement. Moreover, when transporting cosmetics in hot summer, if the storage measures are not appropriate, its preservative effect will be affected.
4. Spectrastat™ G2 Natural MB (natural preservative)
INCI: Caprylyl Hydroxamic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycerin
Solubility: Oil-soluble
PH stability: 4 – 8
Recommended dosage: 1.5 – 2%
Product Introduction: Spectrastat™ G2 Natural MB is a 100% natural broad-spectrum alternative preservation system.
Application reference: Spectrastat™ G2 Natural MB is oil-soluble, so it is suitable for a variety of cosmetics. For example, moisturizing foundation, highlighter lotion, face cream, shower gel and ohter cosmetics. This preservative also has a unique advantage: it can be added in the later stage of the formula without affecting the product texture and avoiding microbial contamination.
Disadvantages: The research and development and production process of Spectrastat™ G2 Natural MB is complex, and the procurement cost increases, which may affect the product profit. In addition, its recommended dosage is relatively fixed, which limits the possibility of matching with other formulas.
5. Optiphen™ BSB-N/Rokonsal™ BSB-N
INCI: benzyl alcohol, glycerin, benzoic acid, sorbic acid
Solubility: miscible in water
PH stability: less than 5.4 (the lower the PH value, the better the efficacy)
Recommended dosage: 0.3-1.0%
Product Introduction: Optiphen™ BSB-N/Rokonsal™ BSB-N is a broad-spectrum liquid preservative that is effective against Gram-negative bacteria, yeasts and molds. It complies with ECOCERT, COSMOS, NATRUE and BDIH standards.
Application reference: Optiphen™ BSB-N/Rokonsal™ BSB-N complies with multiple natural certification standards and is suitable for lip glaze and lip stain. Especially in the southern region, it can prevent bacteria from growing in lip makeup products and avoid product discoloration and odor.
Disadvantages: The organic acids in the Optiphen™ BSB-N/Rokonsal™ BSB-N system may cause skin irritation to some sensitive people.
6. Geogard Ultra®
INCI: Gluconolactone, Benzoic Acid
Solubility: Water-soluble
PH stability: 3 – 6
Recommended dosage: 0.75-2.0%
Product Introduction: Geogard Ultra®INCI is a synergistic patented mixture that meets the requirements of COSMOS, NATRUE and the Soil Association. Working principle: It slowly releases gluconic acid over time to inhibit bacterial growth.
Application reference: Geogard Ultra® is suitable for most water-based cosmetics, such as makeup removers and refreshing lotions. It can help keep the product clear and transparent, and avoid turbidity and deterioration caused by bacterial growth.
Disadvantages: Geogard Ultra® cannot be used in oily makeup removers and nourishing ointment products, which limits its application range. In addition, its slow release of gluconic acid production process is difficult to accurately control, which may cause unstable quality.
7. Euxyl™ k712I
NCI: sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, water
Solubility: water soluble
PH stability: less than 5.5
Recommended dosage: 0.5-1.5%
Product introduction: Euxyl™ k712I is a broad-spectrum antibacterial liquid preservative. It is milder than other natural preservatives and meets many natural certification requirements.
Application reference: Euxyl™ k712 is a liquid preservative that is water-soluble and has strong inhibitory effect on common microorganisms. It is suitable for use in the formulation of eyelash glue and eyelash care liquid to avoid the risk of eye infection.
Disadvantages: Euxyl™ k712I has mild properties. When used in skin care products containing high concentrations of plant extracts and sugars, its preservative ability is insufficient.
8. Cosphaderm® MultiMEGI
NCI: Caprylic Glyceryl, Pentylene Glycol, Magnolia Bark Extract
Solubility: Oil/Alcohol Soluble
PH Stability: 3.5-7.5
Recommended Dosage: 1.2-1.6%
Product Introduction: Cosphaderm® MultiMEGI is a multifunctional product with strong inhibitory effects on bacteria, yeasts and molds. However, it has not yet been listed as a preservative in EU cosmetics regulations.
Application Reference: Cosphaderm® MultiMEG has multifunctional properties and oil/alcohol soluble properties. It may be suitable for use in oil-based makeup touch-up creams and makeup crayons in the future. However, since it has not obtained EU legal approval and other natural preservatives are widely used, it has not yet been widely used in cosmetics manufacturing.
Disadvantages: At present, Cosphaderm® MultiMEGI has not been listed as a preservative in EU cosmetics regulations, so its scope of application is limited. If your brand product uses this formula, you may need to spend extra money to prepare relevant information to prove its safety.
9. Lexgard® Natural MBI
NCI: Caprylic Glyceryl, Undecylenic Acid
Solubility: Insoluble in water
PH stability: 4 – 8 (Best effect at PH 5.5)
Recommended dosage: 1.0-1.5%
Product Introduction: Lexgard® Natural MBI is an all-natural, multifunctional comprehensive preservative. It mainly inhibits bacteria and yeast, and has a general inhibitory effect on mold, so it is best used in combination with stronger preservatives.
Application reference: Lexgard® Natural MB is particularly recommended for O/W or W/O emulsion systems, such as skin creams and lotions. It acts as an emollient, auxiliary emulsifier, and can inhibit bacteria and yeast, making the performance of cosmetics more stable.
10. Geogard® ECT/Preservative ECOI
NCI: benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, glycerin, sorbic acid
Solubility: partially soluble in water
PH stability: 3 – 8
Recommended dosage: 0.6-1.0%
Product Introduction: Geogard® ECT/Preservative ECOI can be used to resist Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeasts and molds, with a wide range of antibacterial properties. It complies with ECOCERT standards and is approved by COSMOS, has low odor and good safety.
Application reference: Geogard® ECT/Preservative ECO is most suitable for powdered makeup cosmetics. If this formula is added to setting powder and eye shadow powder, it can prevent the powder from getting wet and maintain a loose texture.
11.Dermosoft® 1388 ECOI
NCI: glycerin, water, sodium levulinate, anisic acid
Solubility: water soluble
PH stability: 4 – 5.5
Recommended dosage: 2.0-4.0%
Product introduction: Dermosoft® 1388 ECOI is a 100% naturally extracted preservative alternative ingredient. Moreover, it has been approved by COSMOS and has high safety. It has very good antibacterial efficiency against Gram-positive bacteria, Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold.
Application reference: Dermosoft® 1388 ECOI is suitable for various emulsions and surfactant cosmetics, such as makeup remover and foam cleansing mousse.
Disadvantages: Its recommended dosage is 2.0 – 4.0%, which leads to higher procurement costs for enterprises and compresses profit margins. The pH stability of its solubility is between 4 – 5.5, and it has strict requirements on the pH of the product formula.
12.Optiphen™ BSB-WI
NCI: benzyl alcohol, water, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid
Solubility: water soluble
PH stability: less than 5.4
Recommended dosage: 0.3-1%
Product introduction: Optiphen™ BSB-WI is effective in inhibiting Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeasts and molds. It meets the standards of ECOCERT, COSMOS, NATRUE and BDIH.
Application reference: Optiphen™ BSB-W is a broad-spectrum preservative that meets multiple standards and is very suitable for eyeliners and eyebrow pencils. It can promote more uniform coloring of eyebrow pencils and make the product more comfortable to use.
Conclusion
In the current competitive color cosmetics market, the use of natural preservatives approved by COSMOS brings many advantages to brands. The use of natural preservatives not only fits the consumer trend, but also sends a positive signal to consumers that the brand pays attention to health.
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