More and more consumers are refusing to use cosmetics that are likely to cause skin allergies. 57% of consumers consider their skin to be sensitive, and the number of people with sensitive skin is on the rise. This has led to many cosmetics manufacturers rapidly increasing the use rate of soothing and repairing ingredients.
Taking allantoin as an example, as of September 2024, there were more than 40,000 brands in the Chinese cosmetics market using allantoin, and there were as many as 324,000 valid products on record containing this ingredient.
According to authoritative beauty industry data, the sales of facial skin care products in 2024 exceeded 7.4 billion US dollars, and the sales volume exceeded 280 million pieces. Among them, the sales of products with the concept of sensitive skin increased by 12.41% year-on-year. With the increase in people’s life pressure, skin dryness and sensitivity problems are becoming more and more common, which promotes the iteration of creams and essences towards the dual functions of “repairing the skin barrier + soothing and moisturizing”.
This article summarizes the top 17 popular soothing and repairing functional ingredients in 2024 from various products. This not only provides consumers with a clear reference, but also helps cosmetics brands understand the current popular soothing and repairing ingredients in the market and increase the probability of creating popular products.
NO.1 Filtrate of Saccharomyces/Rice Fermentation Product
This ingredient is a liquid product obtained by filtering the fermentation of saccharomyces and rice. It is rich in amino acids, polypeptides, vitamins, minerals, and biological enzymes, which help cells resist endogenous aging.
This ingredient can promote the expression of AQP3 and help repair the skin moisture loss caused by aging. It can promote the production of ceramide, desmosomal proteins, and tight junction protein components, enhance the firmness of the skin, and reduce wrinkles. It can also maintain the stability of the skin’s microecology, promote blood circulation, and make the skin smoother and more delicate.
Experiments have shown that after using the essence water containing this ingredient for 4 hours, the water content of the skin’s stratum corneum increased significantly. The research report of Mageline shows that its core ingredient, Mageline Ferment (a filtrate of saccharomyces/rice fermentation product), has significant effects in skin moisturizing, firming, and anti-wrinkle aspects. Many consumers with sensitive skin have reported that after using Mageline Essence Balancing Water containing 94.4% Mageline Ferment, their skin sensitivity has been relieved.
Application cases in color cosmetics
Essence category: For example, DINESSR Dual-effect Tightening Essence Water is used to improve the problem of skin looseness and sagging. Mageline Essence Balancing Water contains 94.4% of 10 times concentrated Mageline Ferment, which not only moisturizes the skin but also promotes the repair of sensitive skin.
Lotion and Emulsion category: Bio-MESO Lotion and Emulsion add the filtrate of saccharomyces/rice fermentation product, which can inhibit the skin’s oil secretion.
Cream category: Mageline Reverse Time Anti-aging Cream adds a high concentration of Mageline Ferment, which can moisturize and anti-wrinkle.
Eye Cream category: Fermentation Radiance Elasticity Eye Cream contains this ingredient, which can improve the problems of the skin around the eyes.
NO.2 Ceramide AP
Ceramide AP is a white or off-white waxy solid and is a major component of the lipids in the skin’s stratum corneum. It can enhance the skin barrier, prevent water loss, keep the skin moisturized and smooth, and also has anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects.
Ceramide AP can supplement the deficiency of natural ceramides in the skin, improve the lipid structure between the cells of the skin’s stratum corneum, and enhance the skin’s resistance to external stimuli.
In addition, it combines with the water in the stratum corneum to form a network structure to prevent water evaporation. It is just like creating a natural “moisturizing cover” for the skin. Relevant studies have shown that the content of epidermal ceramides in the sensitive skin group is about 37% less than that in healthy skin. And after using skin care products containing ceramide AP, the skin condition can be significantly improved.
Applications in color cosmetics
Skin care products: Ceramide AP is very common in skin care products such as creams, lotions, and serums. For example, some high-end creams of Estée Lauder also add ceramide AP to help the skin stay moisturized and firm.
Mask category: The hydrating and moisturizing mask added with ceramide, with triple ceramides (NP/AP/NS) as the core and hyaluronic acid as a combination, forms a dual “water-locking – water-storing” link, reducing the rate of makeup caking.
NO.3 α-Arbutin
α-Arbutin is derived from bearberry leaves and its main effect is skin whitening and spot removal. It is a white crystalline powder, odorless and slightly bitter.
It is a tyrosinase inhibitor that can block the production of melanin and lighten dark spots. Compared with β-arbutin, α-arbutin is easier to penetrate deep into the skin and is more effective in terms of whitening effect.
Applications of α-arbutin in color cosmetics:
Whitening foundation: The foundation added with α-arbutin can even out the skin tone more evenly and gradually play a whitening role during use.
Whitening concealer: For dark spots and acne marks, the concealer containing α-arbutin can not only cover the blemishes but also help lighten these blemishes.
Whitening lipstick: Some lipsticks add α-arbutin to lighten the dull lip color and make the lips more pink and tender.
NO.4 White Willow Bark Extract
White willow bark extract is a brown or yellowish-brown powder or liquid with a unique plant aroma. It is rich in salicin, which can soften the skin’s stratum corneum and promote skin renewal.
In addition, it also has certain anti-inflammatory and astringent effects, shrinking pores, and is especially suitable for oily skin.
Applications of white willow bark extract in color cosmetics
Base makeup products: Adding white willow bark extract to liquid foundation and air cushion can keep the base makeup fresh and prolong the makeup lasting time.
Makeup removal products: Adding white willow bark extract to cleansing oil and cleansing cream can gently remove aging keratin cells from the skin when used.
Finishing powder: Incorporating this ingredient into loose powder can absorb oil, accelerate makeup setting, and make the skin look smoother.
Acne concealer: Adding this ingredient to concealer can reduce acne inflammation and soften the keratin on the surface of acne.
NO.5 Gentiana Root Extract
Gentiana root extract is a yellow to brownish powder or liquid with a special herbal smell. It is rich in gentiopicrin, flavonoids, polysaccharides, amino acids, and vitamins.
It can soothe skin sensitivity, reduce redness and inflammation. It can also enhance the skin barrier function, and make the skin healthier, smoother, and more elastic.
Applications of gentiana root extract in color cosmetics
Sensitive skin-friendly base makeup: Adding gentiana root extract to foundation and cushion can modify the skin tone, soothe the skin, and reduce the risk of allergy. For example, Winona Soothing Moisturizing Cushion BB Cream.
Anti-inflammatory setting powder: Adding gentiana root extract to the setting powder can absorb oil, have an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, and reduce the occurrence of acne and pimples.
Moisturizing and repairing lipstick: Applying gentiana root extract to lipstick has the effect of moisturizing the skin and keeping the lips soft and smooth.
NO.6 Filtrate of Saccharomyces Fermentation Product
This ingredient is a transparent or slightly yellow liquid obtained by filtering the fermentation product of saccharomyces. It is rich in amino acids, polypeptides, polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals, and organic acids.
These ingredients can provide rich nutrients for the skin, promote the metabolism of skin cells, and prevent dryness and desquamation. In addition, it also has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing effects, which can reduce skin inflammation and make the skin look healthier and younger.
Applications of the filtrate of saccharomyces fermentation product in the field of color cosmetics
Essence products: Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Essence combines this ingredient with other ingredients to delay the aging process of the skin.
Cream products: Lancôme Absolue Premium Bx Cream also incorporates the filtrate of saccharomyces fermentation product. Combined with rose essence, it provides nourishment for the skin and improves the skin’s moisturizing ability.
Mask products: The core ingredient of SK-II Facial Treatment Mask, Pitera™, is a filtrate of galactomyces fermentation product, which can supplement nutrients to the skin and improve the overall skin condition with long-term use.
Base makeup products: Shiseido Synchro Skin Self-Refreshing Foundation adds this ingredient to nourish the skin while creating the base makeup.
NO.7 Prinsepia utilis Oil
Prinsepia utilis oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E, carotenoids, and sterols, which can deeply nourish the skin. In addition, it also has excellent antioxidant properties and can delay skin aging.It usually appears as a yellow or golden liquid with a unique aroma.
Applications of Prinsepia utilis oil in color cosmetics
Moisturizing: The unsaturated fatty acids in Prinsepia utilis oil can deeply nourish the skin. It can be added to lipsticks and lip glosses to prevent chapped lips; it can also be used in foundation and blush products to avoid the problem of makeup caking.
Antioxidant: Adding Prinsepia utilis oil to powder compacts can protect the skin while setting the makeup.
Improving skin texture: Adding an appropriate amount of this ingredient to eyeshadows and blushes can make the powder texture more delicate and fit better, making it easier to apply and blend, and adding a natural color tone.
NO.8 Madecassoside
Madecassoside is extracted from Centella asiatica. It generally appears as a white or off-white powder, odorless or with a slight special smell.
It can promote the synthesis of skin collagen and improve the problem of skin looseness. In addition, it can also provide anti-inflammatory effects on the skin and relieve redness symptoms.
Applications of madecassoside in cosmetics
Anti-wrinkle and firming: Madecassoside can be added to foundation and cushion to make the skin look firm after makeup and reduce the appearance of fine lines.
Anti-inflammatory and repairing: Madecassoside is suitable for being added to concealers and BB creams to repair problem skin such as acne and sensitive redness while covering blemishes.
NO.9 Mussel Extract
There are mainly two types of production processes for mussel extract.
Among them, the main process is to obtain recombinant mussel adhesive protein by using genetic engineering technology. This protein source is safer and retains the three major structural characteristics of natural mussel adhesive protein, namely DOPA, hydrophobic groups, and positive charges.
It mainly plays the roles of soothing and repairing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant, and can improve skin sensitivity, aging, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation problems.
Applications of mussel extract in cosmetics
Soothing and repairing: Mussel extract can be added to isolation creams and makeup primers to lay a good foundation for subsequent makeup application.
Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant: Mussel extract is suitable for being added to eyeshadow and blush products to resist the oxidative damage caused by makeup.
NO.10 Olive Leaf Extract
Olive leaf extract is a green to yellowish-green liquid or powder with a unique smell of olive leaves. It is derived from the leaves of the olive tree and is rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, triterpenoids, vitamins, and trace elements.
These active ingredients have the functions of skin antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, soothing, moisturizing, and repairing, and can reduce skin inflammation and promote the regeneration of damaged skin.
Applications of olive leaf extract in cosmetics
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory: Olive leaf extract is rich in polyphenols and flavonoids. It can be added to lipsticks and lip glosses to soothe lip inflammation.
Moisturizing and repairing: Olive leaf extract can be added to foundation and CC creams to replenish moisture to the skin and promote the regeneration of damaged skin.
NO.11 Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid, also known as aminomethylbenzoic acid, is generally a white crystalline powder. It can directly penetrate the stratum corneum, inhibit the activity of melanocytes, and whiten and lighten spots. In addition, it has antioxidant effects and can slow down skin aging.
Applications in cosmetics
Whitening and lightening spots: Tranexamic acid can inhibit the activity of melanocytes. Adding it to foundation, cushion, and powder compact products can help lighten dark spots with long-term use.
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory: Adding tranexamic acid to lipsticks and lip glosses can protect the lip skin from oxidation and prevent chapped and peeling lips.
NO.12 Ectoin
Ectoin has a protective effect on cells in environments such as high temperature, severe cold, drought, extreme pH values, high pressure, and high salt.
Applications in cosmetics
Skin protection: Ectoin can be added to isolation creams and makeup primers to help the skin resist the damage of high temperature and high pollution.
Soothing, anti-inflammatory, and UV resistance: Adding Ectoin to sunscreen and BB cream products can soothe the skin during the sun protection process and reduce the risk of skin aging.
NO.13 Citrus Fruit Extract
Citrus fruit extract is rich in vitamin C, flavonoids, limonoids, coumarins, minerals, and trace elements. It can target and inhibit the expression of the TRPV1 receptor, relieving skin stinging, itching, burning, and redness.
In addition, it has the unique aroma of citrus fruits and has good water solubility, so it can be used as a natural fragrance in cosmetics.
Applications in cosmetics
Soothing and repairing: Citrus fruit extract can be added to blushes and eyeshadows to reduce skin irritation and bring a friendly makeup experience for sensitive skin.
Natural fragrance and brightening: Citrus fruit extract has a strong aroma and can be used as a natural fragrance in color cosmetics. In addition, citrus fruit extract can be added to foundation and CC cream products.
NO.14 Soluble Collagen
There are two types of soluble collagen: one is extracted from animal tissues, and the other is obtained through biomanufacturing technology to obtain recombinant collagen. Animal-derived collagen is hydrolyzed by acid, alkali or enzyme catalysis to obtain the soluble part. The technology is mature and the cost is low.
The production of recombinant collagen involves gene recombination, cell factory construction, fermentation and separation and purification technology. The cost is relatively high, but the amino acid sequence is completely consistent with the amino acid sequence of human collagen, which is safer.
Applications in cosmetics
Adding soluble collagen to base makeup products such as liquid foundation and air cushion can compensate for the loss of skin collagen, restore skin moisture and elasticity, make the makeup more adherent, and reduce the phenomenon of powder sticking.
Moreover, adding soluble collagen to lipstick and lip gloss can keep the lip skin soft and moisturized.
NO.15 Camellia Extract
Camellia extract is extracted from the flowers of Camellia japonica. It contains rich natural vitamins, polyphenols, flavonoids, saponins, catechins, vitamin C, tannic acid, and amino acids and other active ingredients.
These ingredients endow it with multiple skin care functions such as whitening, antioxidant, moisturizing, hydrating, soothing and repairing, and anti-allergy.
It usually appears as a light brown to yellow liquid or powder, has the unique smell of camellia, and has a moderate solubility in water, making it easy to add to various cosmetic formulations.
Applications in cosmetics
Adding camellia extract to isolation creams and makeup primers can make use of its moisturizing, hydrating, soothing and repairing functions. This prepares the skin for subsequent makeup and improves the skin condition.
Adding it to powdered color cosmetics like blushes and eyeshadows can reduce powder irritation to the skin. Meanwhile, it gives the products whitening and antioxidant effects, enhancing the skin care value of the color cosmetics.
In addition, adding camellia extract to lipsticks and lip glosses can also play an anti-allergy role and care for sensitive lip skin.
NO.16 Ergothioneine
Ergothioneine was first discovered in ergot fungi in 1909 and is a natural amino acid antioxidant. Its main function is anti-aging, and it also has the functions of whitening, anti-aging, anti-radiation, and maintaining DNA synthesis. In addition, it is safe and non-toxic and is widely used in pharmaceutical products and dietary supplements.
Applications in cosmetics
Ergothioneine can be added to base makeup products to play the roles of anti-aging and antioxidant; adding ergothioneine to eyeshadows and eyeliners can reduce the oxidative damage problems caused by color cosmetics.
NO.17 Glabridin
Glabridin is extracted from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra. It is a yellow or light yellow crystalline powder.
Due to the harsh extraction conditions, its production cost is also relatively high, but this does not affect its excellent whitening effect, and it is often used in high-end skin care products.
In addition to whitening, it also has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial effects.
Applications in cosmetics
Glabridin is often used in high – end base makeup products. It can achieve highly effective skin whitening and also has anti – inflammatory and antibacterial effects. If glabridin is added to concealers, it can target dark spots and acne marks for whitening and repair.
NO.18 Fermentation product of Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black tea
This ingredient is a mixture produced by the combined action of Saccharomyces and Xylinum during the black tea fermentation process. It can effectively inhibit the skin’s glycation reaction and promote the improvement of skin texture. Moreover, it has good antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from free – radical damage.
Applications in cosmetics
Adding this fermentation product to liquid foundation and BB creams can inhibit the skin’s glycation reaction, firm the skin, and make the skin look fuller and more elastic after makeup application.
Leecosmetic: Using raw materials from internationally renowned companies
Leecosmetic is a leading cosmetics manufacturer that provides high-quality cosmetics products at very competitive prices and low minimum order quantities.
We provide a range of services such as private label cosmetics manufacturing, OEM/ODM manufacturing, and provide a complete product supply solution for small and medium-sized cosmetics brands.
As a fast-growing private label cosmetics manufacturer, Leecosmetic has been using raw materials from internationally renowned companies in a safe and efficient manner.
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