Since the 21st century, consumers have been increasingly concerned about the safety of cosmetics.
In 2024, with the popularization of cosmetic science knowledge and the influence of short video media such as Tiktok, consumers have begun to have a deeper understanding of some cosmetic ingredients, which has prompted cosmetic ingredient suppliers to accelerate the development and research of new ingredients.
Since December 2022, when L’Oreal acquired a minority stake in French biotechnology company Microphyt, news about investing in cosmetic raw material companies has continued. Industry insiders revealed that many international beauty giants have invested in cosmetic raw material companies in an attempt to further expand their brand strength.
Taking the Chinese cosmetics market as an example, this article reviews the top 10 international cosmetics popular ingredients list and deeply analyzes the characteristics and applications of each ingredient.
1. Sodium hyaluronate: good moisturizing effect
Sodium hyaluronate is a high molecular weight linear polysaccharide that exists in animal connective tissue.
Sodium hyaluronate has excellent permeability and biocompatibility, can be well combined with human skin, and its moisturizing effect far exceeds that of traditional moisturizers.
The evaluation report of the Cosmetic Ingredient Evaluation Committee (CIR) of the United States shows that sodium hyaluronate is safe and reliable to use in cosmetics. According to other statistics, the highest concentration of this ingredient in cosmetics that have been launched is 2%.
Sodium hyaluronate is suitable as an ingredient in moisturizing lotions, creams, masks and essences.
2. Vitamin E: High-quality antioxidant
Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin that is very popular with consumers and is a high-quality antioxidant.
In the human body, vitamin E is also an essential vitamin, so the use of this ingredient formula to make cosmetics has a high safety and also has a good protective effect on the skin.
The rabbit ear experiment shows that high concentration (10%) of vitamin E may have the risk of acne. However, in the actual application of cosmetic formulas, the amount of vitamin E added is much less than 10%.
Whether vitamin E is easy to cause acne requires a comprehensive consideration of the amount of addition, formula and process factors.
The CIR report pointed out that the concentration of vitamin E used in rinse-off products is 0.0000009 – 3%, and the concentration of leave-on products is 0.000003 – 5.4%, and it has been included in the “Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS)” ingredient list of the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
Vitamin E is suitable for making antioxidant essences, moisturizers, and sunscreen products.
3. Tocopherol acetate: stable antioxidant
Tocopherol acetate is a derivative of vitamin E, which is more stable than vitamin E and has excellent antioxidant properties.
The CIR evaluation report shows that the concentration of tocopherol acetate used in rinse-off products is 0.000075 – 25%, and the concentration of leave-on products is 0.00000001 – 36%.
It is very safe for use in cosmetics and has been included in the “GRAS” ingredient list of the US FDA.
Tocopherol acetate is suitable for anti-aging skin care products, whitening products, and eye care products.
4. Citric acid: multifunctional organic acid
Citric acid comes from lemons and is a fruit acid. It is a cosmetic raw material that consumers like very much. Because lemons are an important ingredient in European countries, they will make people think of health and practicality.
In cosmetics, citric acid is a chelating agent, buffer, acid-base regulator, and natural preservative (without the hazards of chemical preservatives).
Citric acid can accelerate the renewal of skin keratin, accelerate the exfoliation of melanin, shrink pores, dissolve blackheads, and has moisturizing and whitening effects, which can improve rough skin.
Citric acid also has antibacterial effects, and is a non-toxic substance with no mutation effect and high safety.
5. Niacinamide: Multifunctional skin care ingredient
Niacinamide is a vitamin substance, also known as nicotinamide and vitamin B3.
Niacinamide is widely found in animal meat, liver, kidney, peanuts, rice bran and yeast, and is clinically used to prevent and treat pellagra, stomatitis and glossitis. U.S.
The U.S. CIR report shows that the concentration range of niacinamide in marketed cosmetics is 0.0001–3%, which is safe and reliable.
6. Panthenol: Soothing and repairing the skin
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, has three forms: D-panthenol (dextrorotatory), L-panthenol (levorotatory) and DL-panthenol (mixed).
Among them, D-panthenol has high biological activity, can soothe the skin and help skin repair.
According to the CIR report, the maximum concentration of panthenol in rinse-off and leave-on products is 6%, which is safe and guaranteed under the conditions of cosmetic use.
7. Centella asiatica extract: skin guardian
Centella asiatica is a traditional Chinese medicinal material with a long history. The main active ingredients of its extract are asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassosin.
According to scientific reports, Centella asiatica extract has the effects of soothing the skin, whitening and anti-oxidation. The CIR report pointed out that the concentration of Centella asiatica extract in rinse-off products is 0.00002-0.082%, and the concentration of leave-on products is 0.00002-0.5%.
If the formula is non-allergenic, Centella asiatica extract is safe and feasible for use in cosmetics.
8. Squalane: Natural shield for the skin
Squalane is a natural cosmetic ingredient derived from shark liver oil and olives.
Although squalane comes from sharks and olives, it has a similar structure to squalene, a component of human sebum, and is easily integrated into the skin to form a protective film on the skin surface.
This layer of skin protective film can serve as a safe and healthy barrier to protect the skin from external pollution.
The CIR report shows that the concentration of squalane in rinse-off products is 0.0001-34.9%, and the concentration of leave-on products is 0.0001-97%, which is safe and reliable in cosmetic use.
9. Jojoba seed oil: refreshing and easy to absorb
Jojoba, also known as Simmondsia chinensis, mainly grows in the desert at the junction of the United States and Mexico, so its output is relatively rare and it is one of the most valuable raw materials for cosmetics. Grade jojoba oil is extracted by the first cold pressing, golden yellow, with a light nutty aroma.
Although it comes from plants, its chemical molecular arrangement is similar to human sebum, which is easily absorbed by the skin and is very helpful for protecting the skin.
Using jojoba seed oil will make the skin feel refreshing, it will condense when it is cold, and it will melt and be absorbed when it comes into contact with the skin. The CIR report shows that the concentration of jojoba seed oil in listed cosmetics is 0.000005-100%, which is very safe under the conditions of cosmetic use.
10. Shea butter: natural moisturizing ingredient
Shea butter is shea butter, which is rich in unsaturated fatty acids. Its natural moisturizing factor components are the same as those extracted from sebaceous glands, and it has a significant effect on skin moisturizing and conditioning.
Shea nuts grow mostly in tropical rainforests in Africa, and the oil in the kernel of the fruit “shea” is shea butter.
According to the CIR report, the concentration of shea butter in rinse-off products is 0.0001-10%, and the concentration of leave-on products is 0.001-100%. When the formula is non-allergenic, shea butter is safe and reliable for use in cosmetics.
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Note 1: About the Cosmetic Raw Materials Evaluation Committee of the United States
1. Main responsibilities
CIR is responsible for the safety assessment of cosmetic raw materials. It regularly collects and analyzes the chemical properties, toxicological studies, and clinical studies of cosmetic raw materials to determine whether the raw materials are safe to use in cosmetics.
For example, for common cosmetic ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate and vitamin E, CIR will study whether they cause allergic and irritating reactions to human skin at different concentrations. Through the above analysis report, and propose the concentration standard for use in cosmetics.
For example, in the evaluation of tocopherol acetate, CIR clearly stated that its use concentration in rinse-off products is 0.000075 – 25%, and in leave-on products is 0.00000001 – 36%.
2. Evaluation process
First, CIR will collect scientific literature on a cosmetic raw material, data provided by cosmetic companies, and research results from other relevant institutions.
Then, CIR experts analyze and review these data. These experts include toxicologists, dermatologists, and chemists.
Finally, CIR experts draw evaluation conclusions based on their opinions.
References:
①Safety Assessment of Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, and Sodium Hyaluronate. Final report 2009 available from CIR.
②Safety Assessment of Tocopherols and Tocotrienols as Used in Cosmetics. Published report 2018 available from CIR. IJT 37(Suppl. 2):61-94, 2018.
③Safety Assessment of Tocopherols and Tocotrienols as Used in Cosmetics. Published report 2018 available from CIR. IJT 37(Suppl. 2):61-94, 2018.
④Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Niacinamide and Niacin1. Published Report 2005 available from CIR.
⑤Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics. Final report 2017 available from CIR.
⑥Safety Assessment of Centella asiatica-derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. Final report 2015 available from CIR.
⑦Annual Review of Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Assessments—2001/2002. Report 2003 available from CIR. IJT 22(Suppl. 1):1-35, 2003.
⑧Safety Assessment of Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Isomerized Jojoba Oil, Jojoba Esters, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter, Jojoba Alcohol, and Synthetic Jojoba Oil. Final report 2008 available from CIR.
