Ngomhla woku-1 kuOkthobha ngo-2026, inkampani ye-biotech yaseFransi i-AFYREN (i-Euronext: ALAFY) yabhengeza ngokusesikweni intsebenziswano yayo nophawu lwe-microbiome skincare lwaseMzantsi Afrika i-Esse Skincare ukuqalisa iBarrier Rescue, ikhrimu yokulungisa izithintelo. Oku kubonisa imveliso yokuqala yokhathalelo lolusu ehlabathini ene-propionic acid ebilisiweyo, eyi-100% biobased njengesithako sayo esiphambili se-bioactive.
Esi sibhengezo sithathwe ziinkampani eziphambili zorhwebo lobuhle zamazwe ngamazwe eziquka i-Personal Care Insights , i-Home & Personal Care eMbindi Mpuma naseAfrika , i-Microbiologist , kunye neqonga leendaba zekhabhoni evuselelekayo iRenewable Carbon News.
Le mveliso ibambe isiqinisekiso sendalo nesendalo seCOSMOS. Ukuqaliswa kwayo kuyaphawuleka kuba ihambelana nesivumelwano seshishini esithathe amashumi eminyaka: i-propionic acid ibisoloko ibonwa njenge-preservative kwi-cosmetic formulations. Ngelixa i-alpha-hydroxy acids kunye ne-salicylic acid ziyaziwa kakhulu ngokukhupha ulusu kunye nokukhawulezisa ukuguquka kweeseli zomphezulu, i-propionic acid ngoku ayiveli nje njengesizinzisi se-antimicrobial, kodwa njengesithako esineenzuzo zokhathalelo lolusu lwe-microbiome eziqinisekisiweyo.
I-Propionic Acid: Ixesha Elide Ithathwa Njengesithinteli Sobuhle
I-Propionic acid yi-fatty acid enamafutha agcweleyo ene-carbon short-chain ezintathu ene-molecular formula C₃H₆O₂, i-structural formula CH₃CH₂COOH kunye nobunzima be-molecular obuyi-74.08. Kwiqondo lobushushu eliphakathi, ibonakala njengolwelo olungenambala olunevumba elibi nelirhabaxa, elenza ukuba ibonakale ngokulula. Ixutywa ngokupheleleyo namanzi kwaye inendawo yokubila emoyeni emalunga ne-141 °C.
Njenge-asidi ye-organic, ukusebenza kwayo njenge-antimicrobial kuxhomekeke kakhulu kwi-pH. Phantsi kweemeko ze-asidi, ithintela ngokukhethekileyo ukwanda kwe-molds kunye neebhaktheriya. Ngenxa yesi sizathu, ibisoloko isetyenziswa kwiiresiphi ze-cosmetic njenge-preservative, i-biocide kunye ne-pH adjuster. I-database ye-EU CosIng idwelisa imisebenzi yayo ye-cosmetic njenge-antimicrobial, preservative, fragrance kunye ne-pH regulator. I-China's National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials (2021 Edition) isebenzisa udidi olufanayo. Iimveliso ze-cosmetic ezingaphantsi kwekhulu ezifakwe ngokusemthethweni eTshayina ziqulethe i-propionic acid, kwaye inxalenye enkulu yezo fayile irhoxisiwe ukusukela ngoko.
Uphononongo lweedathabheyisi zefomula yehlabathi lubonisa ukuba i-propionic acid idla ngokubonakala kwiimveliso zokuthambisa ezinemibala. I-MAC Studio Fix Soft Matte Foundation Stick kunye ne-Wander Beauty On-The-Glow Blush kunye ne-Illuminator zombini zidwelisa i-propionic acid ngenjongo yokugcina. Kwinkathalelo yolusu, iimveliso ezindala ezifana ne-NeoGenesis Salicylic Acid Gel kunye ne-AVON Clearskin Deep Pore Cleansing Scrub zazikhe zadibanisa i-compound kuphela ukukhusela iimveliso ekonakalisweni, endaweni yokuguqula i-cutaneous microbiome. Oku kuphakamisa umbuzo obalulekileyo: ingaba isithako esisetyenziselwa ukubulala iintsholongwane ezingcolisayo kunye nokwandisa ixesha lokugcinwa sinokuphinda sibekwe njengendawo yokulungisa i-microbiome esebenzayo? Impendulo ikwinkqubela phambili enkulu kwi-cosmetic R&D kwiminyaka yakutshanje.
Kutheni iPropionic Acid ingazange isetyenziswe ngaphambili ukuze iguqule iNative Skin Microbiome
Ngaba i-propionic acid inokuba neengenelo zokhathalelo lolusu lwe-microbiome? Kangangeminyaka emininzi, ishishini lezinto zokuthambisa belisebenza phantsi kwengcinga ebanzi yokuba isenzo salo sokulwa neentsholongwane esibanzi siyangqubana nemigaqo ephambili ye-microbiome - nangona oku kungathethi ukuba imolekyuli ayinawo amandla ebhayoloji.
Njengoko iinjongo zokhathalelo lolusu olugxile kwi-microbiome zazisiya zithandwa kakhulu, abenzi be-formulators baqala ukuphonononga uluhlu olubanzi lwezithako ezinokubakho. Ukhathalelo lolusu lwe-microbiome lugxile ekulondolozeni izityalo zesikhumba ezizinzileyo, ekukhuliseni iintsholongwane eziluncedo kunye nokunciphisa iimpawu ezibangela ukudumba.
Xa isetyenziswa njengesithinteli-ntsholongwane, i-propionic acid ithintela iintsholongwane ezibanzi. Kwizinga eliqhelekileyo lokulayisha izithinteli-ntsholongwane, ayinakwahlula phakathi kweentsholongwane ezibangela izifo kunye neentsholongwane eziluncedo ezihlala eluswini, nto leyo ethintela umsebenzi weentsholongwane ngokungakhethiyo. Ukuncitshiswa kweentsholongwane okungakhethiyo kuphazamisa ngokupheleleyo iintsholongwane zesikhumba.
Oku kwabangela ukuba kubekho isivumelwano esamkelweyo kushishino ngokubanzi: izithako ezenzelwe ukugcinwa kweentsholongwane ngokubanzi azifanelekanga ukulungisa izityalo zesikhumba zemveli. Ngoko ke, uphando lokuqala lokhathalelo lolusu lwe-microbiome lwaluyiphepha kakhulu i-propionic acid, lukhetha ezinye iindlela ezithambileyo eziquka iintlobo ze-probiotic eziphilayo, ii-prebiotics, i-postbiotic fermentation filtrates kunye ne-lactic acid.
Yintoni etshintshileyo ukuze kuvumeleke ukusetyenziswa kwePropionic Acid kwiMicrobiome Skincare?
Uphononongo olubalulekileyo lwango-2022 olupapashwe kwiJournal of Experimental Medicine luyiguqule le ndlela yokuqonda, lutyhila amandla amakhulu e-propionic acid kulawulo lwe-cutaneous microbiome.
Olu phando lukhokelwa ngokudibeneyo liqela likaNjingalwazi Wei Li kwiSibhedlele saseHuashan, kwiYunivesithi yaseFudan, kunye neqela likaNjingalwazi Xu Yao kwiSibhedlele saseTshayina seSayensi yezoNyango kunye nePeking Union Medical College, kwiZiko leDermatology. UGqr. Zhuoqiong Qiu wayengumbhali wokuqala; iqela lophando laliquka abaphandi abali-14 abafana noZhulai Zhu kunye noXiaochun Liu. Eli phepha, elinesihloko esithi A dysregulated sebum–microbial metabolite–IL-33 axis liqala ukudumba kwesikhumba kwi-atopic dermatitis , lichonge i-sebum–microbial metabolite–IL-33 signalling axis njengomqhubi ophambili we-atopic dermatitis.
Iqela lophando liqokelele iisampulu zolusu lobuso kubantu abazinikeleyo abasempilweni kunye nezigulana eziphila ne-atopic dermatitis (AD) ukuze kuhlalutywe ngokuthelekisa. Izigulana ze-AD zibonise amanqanaba e-sebum aphantsi kakhulu kunye nokuncipha koxinzelelo lwe-propionate ephuma kwiintsholongwane xa kuthelekiswa nolawulo olusempilweni. Izifundo ezilandelayo ezisebenzisa imodeli ye-murine AD eyenziwe yi-MC903 zibonise ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-propionate engaphandle kwesikhumba kunciphisa kakhulu ukukhululwa kwe-IL-33 kwiikeratinocytes kwaye kunciphisa ukudumba kwesikhumba. Esi siphumo sokuguqula sisebenza ngokucinezela i-HDAC2/3 kunye nokusebenza kwendlela yokubonisa i-AhR.
Iqela laqhubeka nokuqhuba uvavanyo oluncinci lweklinikhi oluqinisekisa ingcamango yophando oluqesha abathathi-nxaxheba abane-dermatitis ye-atopic ethambileyo ukuya kwephakathi. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-propionate ngaphandle kwesikhumba kumanqanaba afanelekileyo emzimbeni kuvelise ukwehla okulinganiselweyo kwamanqaku okudumba kwesilonda, ngaphandle kokubangela ukuphazamiseka okukhulu kwe-microbiome okanye ukurhawuzelelwa.
Isigqibo esiphambili sophando simisela umda ocacileyo: idosi kunye nokusetyenziswa okucwangcisiweyo kulawula iziphumo zebhayoloji ze-propionic acid. Ngamazinga aphezulu okufakwa asetyenziselwa ukugcinwa, i-propionic acid isebenza njenge-biocide ebanzi ejolise kwizinto eziphilayo ezonakeleyo ngaphakathi kwimveliso. Xa isetyenziswa njenge-microbiome esebenzayo, i-propionate yi-metabolite yendalo eveliswa yi-commensal skin bacteria efana ne- Cutibacterium acnes . Isetyenziswa kumanqanaba aphantsi afanelekileyo, e-physiological, ayisusi ii-flora zesikhumba eziluncedo; endaweni yoko, inceda ukubuyisela i-homeostasis yesikhumba.
Ngamafutshane, i-propionic acid isebenza "njengesithunywa se-metabolic" kwi-microbiome yesikhumba. Ukuziphatha kwayo kokugcina izinto kubangelwa kukwanda kwamanqanaba, ngelixa indima yayo yendalo kwi-ecosystem yesikhumba ilwa nokudumba kunye nokulawula umqobo. Ngaphambi kolu papasho, ishishini lobuhle laligxile kuphela kumandla alo okubulala iintsholongwane kwaye lalingayinaki imisebenzi yalo yokubonisa iimpawu.
I-CEO ye-AFYREN uNicolas Sordet uthe kwingxelo yabezindaba kaDisemba 2025 ebhengeza ubudlelwane: “Oku kubonisa indlela i-biotechnology enokuvula ngayo amathuba amatsha okusebenza kunye nokuzinza kwezinto zokuthambisa ezizisa iingenelo zokwenyani ebantwini nakwindalo esingqongileyo. Silangazelela ukubona iimveliso zokuqala zifikelela kubathengi.”
Igosa eliyiNtloko lezoRhwebo le-AFYREN uJoachim Merziger wongeze kwingxelo yeendaba emva kokuqaliswa kweBarrier Rescue wathi: “Olu budlelwane lubonisa indlela i-biotechnology enokuvula ngayo amathuba amatsha okusebenza kunye nokuzinza kwezinto zokuthambisa, nto leyo ezisa iingenelo ezibonakalayo ebantwini nakwiplanethi. Siyazingca kakhulu ngokubona iimveliso zokuqala ngoku zifikelela kubathengi.”
Umsunguli we-Esse Skincare, uTrevor Steyn, uchithe iminyaka engaphezu kweshumi ephanda nge-skin microbiome kwaye uphakathi kwabaphambili bokuqala abakhuthaza utshintsho ukusuka kwi-strain-centric formulation ukuya kwi-metabolite-led development. Kudliwanondlebe nophawu, uchaze ukuba uphando lwe-microbiome lwasekuqaleni lwalubeka phambili kakhulu ukubandakanya iintsholongwane eziphilayo, ezijongene nozinzo olukhulu kunye nemida yokungena kwesikhumba ngaphakathi kweziseko zobuhle. Umsebenzi weqela lakhe wokujonga iindlela ze-sebum metabolic utyhile ukuba ukongeza ii-metabolites ezikhutshwa ngokwendalo ziintsholongwane zesikhumba, ezifana ne-propionic acid, zibonelela ngendlela ethe ngqo yokulawula imiqondiso yokuvuvukala.
Uphuhliso Oluhambelanayo Phakathi Kwababoneleli Bezinto Eziluhlaza ZaseTshayina
Abavelisi bezithako baseTshayina nabo baqhubela phambili nomsebenzi kweli candelo.
Kwimboniso yezithako, iShanghai UniVOOK (iBailuo Hualian Chemical) yabelane ukuba inyuse imveliso ye-100% ye-biobased propionic acid eqinisekiswe yi-SGS, eyenziwe ngokubiliswa kweentsholongwane. Nangona kunjalo, phantsi kwesakhelo solawulo lwe-cosmetic saseTshayina, i-propionic acid isahlulwe kuphela njengezinto zokugcina izinto. Eli candelo lijongene nomceli mngeni wolwakhiwo olufanayo: imolekyuli yekhemikhali ngokwayo ayitshintshanga, kodwa iinjongo zokwenziwa kunye nezizathu ze-R&D ziye zacingwa ngokutsha ngokupheleleyo. Iikhathalogu zezinto eziluhlaza ezilawulwayo zihlala zishiyeka emva kokufunyanwa kwesayensi okutsha malunga ne-microbiology yolusu.
Inkokeli ephezulu yophando nophuhliso evela kwiShandong Hongda Group iphawule kwingqungquthela yezithako zobuhle ukuba inkampani sele ivelise i-propionic acid evundisiweyo ephuma kwisitatshi sombona. Ngokwembali, imfuno yabathengi yayilinganiselwe ekuthinteleni nasekugcinweni komngundo. Kwiminyaka yakutshanje, inkampani ifumene imibuzo ejoliswe kuyo evela kwiimpawu zokhathalelo lolusu zaseTshayina ezinomdla wokuvavanya i-propionic acid yokulungisa imiqobo kunye nokusetyenziswa kwe-microbiome, nangona iinkqubo zovavanyo olusebenzayo olusemgangathweni kwezi zibango zisakhula.
Iimpembelelo zeShishini eliBanzi kwiiBrand zeZithambiso
Ukuguquka kwe-propionic acid ukusuka kwi-preservative ukuya kwi-microbiome esebenzayo kubonisa utshintsho olubanzi kwi-microbiome skincare R&D, ephethe iziphumo zexesha elide kumashishini e-cosmetic.
Okokuqala, ivula umjelo omtsha wokuvelisa izinto ezintsha ezikhoyo nezikwikhathalogu.
Uyilo lwezithako zezithako zesintu luhlala luxhomekeke ekufumaneni iimolekyuli ezintsha kunye nokungenisa iifayile ezintsha zezinto eziluhlaza - inkqubo ecothayo, edinga imali eninzi. Ityala le-propionic acid libonisa ukuba ii-asidi ezininzi ze-organic ezisele zizinzile, ezibhalwe ixesha elide njengezigcini, izilungisi ze-pH okanye ii-chelating agents, zigcina amandla ebhayoloji angasetyenziswanga. Oku kudala indlela yophuhliso lwe-microbiome engabizi kakhulu, ehambelanayo kwiimveliso ezincinci zaseTshayina ezingenazo izixhobo zokufaka izicelo zokuvunywa kwezinto ezintsha eziluhlaza.
Ngokwemeko, ii-AHA zazikade ziqondwa njengezinto ezisusa ulusu ezithambileyo kunye neziguquli ze-pH. Kamva abaphandi baqinisekisile ukuba i-lactic acid, i-metabolite emfutshane ye-organic eveliswa yi-epidermal lactobacilli, inyusa ukwenziwa kwezinto ezifumisayo kwendalo kwaye igcina umqobo wokuzikhusela wesikhumba obuthathaka. I-L'Oréal kunye nophawu lwayo i-La Roche-Posay badibanisa i-"AP+M Microbiome Remodelling Technology" kunye ne-lactic acid ephantsi kunye ne-postbiotics ukuxhasa umqobo wesikhumba kwizigulana ezinesifo se-atopic eczema. I-Gallinée ephethwe yi-Unilever yakha ipotifoliyo yayo yokhathalelo lwesikhumba lwe-microbiome malunga ne-lactic acid kunye ne-lactobacillus-derived postbiotics.
Okwesibini, ukufunyanwa kubonisa utshintsho olubalulekileyo ekugxilweni kwe-microbiome R&D ukuya kwinto abaninzi abayibiza ngokuba yi-"metabolite era".
Izinto eziphambili kuphando zidlulela ngaphaya kokuchonga ukuba zeziphi iintlobo zeebhaktheriya ezihlala eluswini, ziye ekuphononongeni ii-metabolites eziveliswa zezo ntsholongwane, kunye nendlela ezi metabolites ezilawula ngayo ukhuseleko lwe-keratinocyte kunye nokubonakaliswa kokuvuvukala. Izifundo ziya zisiba zininzi kwaye zijolise ekujoliswe kuzo.
Amaphepha amaninzi ophando avela kumaqela kaGqr. Althea (Euromed, Freda Biotech) akhethwe ukuba aboniswe kwi-IFSCC Congresses elandela olu lwalathiso lophando, edwelisa i-sebum-short-chain fatty acid feedback loops. Iqela leFreda Biotech lisebenzisa i-metabolomics kwi-profile ratios ye-short-chain fatty acids kunye ne-free fatty acids eziveliswa zii-epidermal microbes eziguqula i-cutaneous sebum.
IShiseido iye yamisela icebo layo leSkin Microbiome Focus , igxile kuphando kwi-glycerol kunye ne-short-chain organic metabolites eziveliswa yi -Staphylococcus epidermidis . Iziko layo lophando liqinisekisile ukuba ii-organic metabolites eziveliswa yi-bacteria yesikhumba eluncedo zivuselela ii-keratinocyte receptors kwaye zinyusa ukubonakaliswa kweeproteni ezidibeneyo ezifana neClaudin‑1. Olu phando luxhase ukubekwa kwakhona koluhlu lwenkqubo ye-d kaShiseido, eyenzelwe ukuphucula imveliso yee-microbial metabolites eziluncedo zokhathalelo lwe-microbiome olujoliswe kuyo.
Okwesithathu, le ndlela izisa iingozi ezintsha zorhwebo kunye nokuthobela imithetho.
Iimpawu kufuneka zixelele abathengi kunye nabalawuli ngokucacileyo ukuba isithako esifanayo sinika iziphumo ezahlukeneyo ngokuxhomekeke kuxinzelelo kunye nokwakheka kwe-pH: i-propionic acid ephezulu igcina ukuthembeka kwemveliso kunye nozinzo lweshelufu, ngelixa uxinano oluphantsi ngokwempilo luxhasa ukulungiswa kwemiqobo, kwaye le misebenzi ayifani. Ngaphakathi kwenkqubo yokufaka iifayile yaseTshayina, umsebenzi obhalisiweyo we-propionic acid uhlala ugciniwe. Iimpawu kufuneka zahlukanise ngokungqongqo ukuvezwa kwefayile kwimiyalezo yokuthengisa ukuze kuthintelwe amabango angenabungqina okanye agqithisileyo.
Iimpawu zobuhle ezicocekileyo zihlala zijongene nemingcipheko yokuzinza kunye nokubola okunxulunyaniswa neefomyula ezingagcini bungozi. Imodeli ye-Esse kunye ne-AFYREN isebenzisa i-100% ye-propionic acid evundisiweyo kwi-biobased. Kule fomyula, isithako siyahlangabezana nemigangatho yokuqinisekiswa kwendalo ye-COSMOS / ECOCERT ngelixa senza indima ephindwe kabini: ukugcinwa okuncinci kokuncedisa ekulayisheni okuncitshisiweyo kunye nomsebenzi wokulungisa umqobo we-postbiotic.
Kusengqiqweni ukulindela ukuba njengoko uphando malunga nee-fatty acids ezimfutshane lusanda, ii-organic acids eziqhelekileyo zokulondolozwa ziya kuphinda zivavanywe kwaye zisetyenziswe kwakhona ukuze zifumane iingenelo ezintsha zesikhumba.
I-Leecosmetic: Ukusebenzisa imathiriyeli ekrwada evela kwiinkampani ezaziwayo kumazwe ngamazwe
Qhagamshelana: https://leecosmetic.com/contactus/
Uluhlu lweNkcukacha
- I-AFYREN Esemthethweni I-Press Release: Ukuqaliswa kwemveliso yezithambiso kwihlabathi liphela ngokusekelwe kwi-100% ye-AFYREN's propionic acid yendalo
- Ulwazi Lokhathalelo Lomntu: I-Esse iveza i-Afyren petrochemical-free propionic acid kwi-microbiome skin cream
- UQiu Z, et al. I-sebum-microbial metabolite-IL-33 axis engasebenzi kakuhle iqalisa ukudumba kolusu kwi-atopic dermatitis. Ijenali yamayeza ovavanyo, 2022, 219(10): e20212397
- Ukufakwa kwedatha ye-EU yePropionic acid kwi-database
- Iindaba zeCarbon eHlaziyiweyo: Ukuqaliswa kwemveliso yezithambiso kwihlabathi liphela ngokusekelwe kwi-100% ye-propionic acid yendalo ye-AFYREN
- Iphepha lemveliso elisemthethweni le-UniVOOK le-biobased propionic acid
- IFSCC – I-International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, indawo yokugcina uphando (amaphepha amafutshane e-fatty acid kunye ne-skin microbiome)
- Isishwankathelo seNkqubo yoPhando lweMicrobiome yoLusu lweShiseido
- Uphando lweMicrobiome yaseLa Roche-Posay kunye neSayensi yePostbiotic
- Ikhathalogu ye-NMPA yeZixhobo ezisetyenzisiweyo zeCosmetic Raw (i-portal esemthethweni yoHlelo luka-2021)
