I roto i te ārai-pakeketanga kanohi tuku iho, kua roa te umanga e whakawhirinaki ana ki te rautaki "whakakī anō". I ahu mai tēnei huarahi i te whakapono tawhito ko te ngaronga o te collagen te take matua o te koroheketanga o te kiri, e akiaki ana i ngā mahi mutunga kore ki te whakakī i ngā taumata collagen me te aukati i tōna pirau.
Heoi, mō ngā tekau tau, ko te kiri totoro me te ngoikore o te mata kei roto tonu i ngā wero tino uaua i roto i te rangahau kiri. Tae noa ki tēnei rā, ko ngā otinga tino nui te āhua nei ko ngā tikanga pokanga anake pērā i te SMAS facelifts [1] . Heoi, kei te tukuna e ngā rangahau kiri hou he tauira hou: ko te pakari o te kiri ehara i te mea ko te nui o te collagen anake, engari ko tōna hoahoa ā-wāhi me te whatunga koiora-ā-tinana - he rite tonu ki te whakawhirinaki o te hangarau hoahoanga pai ki ngā tikanga hanganga kaua ki ngā rauemi mata anake.
He aha te Ring Collagen®? He Huarahi Hou i roto i te Pūtaiao Kiri
I te 6 o Hūrae, 2026, i panuitia e te kamupene whakapaipai nui a Shiseido [2] kua kitea e tana tīma R&D—i te mahi tahi me ngā whare hauora me ngā whare rangahau matua o Hapani—he hanganga moroiti hou i roto i te kiri mā te whakamahi i te whakaahua 3D me te tātaritanga koiora: Ring Collagen® . Nā Tākuta Kyoichi Matsuzaki , Ahorangi me te Tiamana o te Tari Pokanga Kirihou me te Whakaora i te Whare Wānanga Hauora me te Oranga o te Ao [3] te kaupapa pūtaiao i ārahi.
I te marama o Hepetema 2022 i te 32 o ngā Huihuinga o te International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) i Rānana, i reira i tū motuhake ai te pepa i roto i ngā rau o ngā whakaurunga o te ao, ā, i whiwhi ai i tētahi tūranga rangatira hei Kaitono Whakamutunga o te Top 10 [4].
Ko te hiranga tūturu o Ring Collagen® kei roto i te nekehanga o te rangahau ārai-pakeketanga mai i te "hanga ngota" noa ki te ao o te miihini kiko . I ngā rā kei mua, ka whānui te aromatawai whai huatanga ki te aromatawai i te whakahāngaitanga o te collagen ā-wāhi me ngā āhua ahotea miihini i roto i te kiko. Ka tautuhi anō hoki tēnei putanga hou i ngā rautaki R&D, ka whakatuwhera i te ara mō ngā otinga ārai-totoka whakauru e whakakotahi ana i te tuku transdermal, te whakaohooho miihini tinana (hei tauira, ngā taputapu microcurrent, ngā tikanga mirimiri motuhake rānei), me te whakatikatika taiao moroiti.
Te Whakaora Ake o te Ring Collagen® i te Āhua o te Kanohi
E whakaatu ana ngā rangahau ehara ngā muka collagen i roto i te kiri hohonu i te mea he whatunga tūpono noa iho; engari, ka hangaia he mowhiti porowhita matotoru huri noa i ngā pūtake huruhuru vellus me ngā repe hinu. Nā te tīma rangahau i tapa mana ēnei hanganga moroiti ko Ring Collagen®.
Te Whakawhāiti-ā-Iho Makariri: Ka mahi takitahi ia mowhiti kolagen hei mowhiti whakawhāiti-ā-iho.
Te Kumetanga Whatunga Makaro: He maha ngā mowhiti e piri tahi ana tetahi ki tetahi mā roto i te kopu o waho o te pūtau e karapoti ana, e raranga ana i tētahi whatunga kumetanga hihiri e pupuri ana i ngā āhua o te mata.
Nō reira, ka mārama te ara koiora o te koroheketanga kiri:
【Āhua Taiohi】 Intact Ring Collagen® + Ngā Proteoglycans Nui ➔ Te Kume i waenga i ngā Mowhiti ➔ Te Whatunga Kume Hihiri Tonu ➔ Te Kiri Pūmau me ngā Āhua Kua Tautuhia
【Ara Koroheketanga】 Ngā Āwangawanga Koroheketanga / Āwangawanga o Waho ➔ Te Whakahekenga o te Proteoglycan Huri noa i ngā Mowhiti ➔ Te Whakararuraru i te Whakaritenga o te Mowhiti ➔ Te Hinga o te Kaha Kume o Roto➔ 【Te Whakaaturanga Macro】 Te Whakahekenga o te Kanohi me te Ngoikore o te Hanganga
He Rerekētanga Hira: Ehara te Ring Collagen® i te momo ngota ngota o te collagen hou, ehara hoki i te mea whakapaipai mata mō te paninga ki te kiri. Engari, he āhua ā-wāhi 3D motuhake o ngā muka collagen i roto i te kiko kiri. Ahakoa kāore e puta he rauemi whakapaipai mata tonu, he hohonu tōna uara ariā mō te wā roa.
Mā te whakamahi i te tātaritanga koiora-3D ex vivo me te tirotiro histological mā te hangarau Digital-Skin Reality® , i whakaarohia e ngā kairangahau ko ngā pūtau perifollicular, ngā ara tohu Wnt16, ngā proteoglycans, me te whakaritenga Ring Collagen® ka hanga tahi i tētahi Wāhanga Mechanobiology mahi e tiaki ana i te taurite koiora-mechanical kiri [5].
Puna whakaahua: Paetukutuku mana o Shiseido
Wāhanga 01 | Ngā Whāinga Ārai-Pakeketanga o Nāianei: Te Ariā vs. Te Tūturutanga Hauora
I mua i te aromatawai i tēnei whāinga hou, he mea nui kia maherehia te tūāpapa pūtaiao o nāianei mō te ārai i te koroheketanga o te kiri. Ina hoki, kāore he "rārangi whaimana o ngā whāinga ārai-koroheketanga" kua whakamanahia whānuitia e te mana kotahi.
Ko ngā rangahau matua o nāianei e hangai ana ki ngā Tohu o te Kaumātuatanga (i whakahoutia i te tau 2023) [6] — tae atu ki te kore pumau o te ira tangata, ngā whakarerekētanga epigenetic, te ngaronga o te proteostasis, te macroautophagy ngoikore, te koroheketanga o ngā pūtau, te ngoikore o te mitochondrial, me te mumura mau tonu. Ahakoa e whakamārama ana ēnei tohu i te take e kaumātua ai ngā pūtau, kāore i te rite tonu ki te whai huatanga haumanu kua whakamātauhia i roto i te tiaki kiri ā-papa.
I roto i te pūtaiao tiaki kiri kua whakapumautia, e toru noa ngā huarahi e whakaatu ana i ngā taunakitanga haumanu pakari, kāore e taea te whakahē:
1. Te Tiakitanga-ā-Kiri (Te Parenga-Rā): Ka puta tika te kino o te DNA, te mumura mau tonu, me te pakaru nui o te collagen i te hihi UV. E whakaatu ana ngā whakamātautau whakahaere matapōkere roa (RCT) ko te whakamahinga o te parenga-ā-kiri whānui i ia rā ka whakaiti i te haere whakamua o te koroheketanga-ā-kiri mā te 24% i roto i te 4.5 tau, ki te whakaritea ki te whakamahinga whiriwhiri [7].
2. Ngā Retinoid: Mā te here ki ngā kaiwhakawhiwhi karihi, ka whakahaere ngā retinoid i te huringa epidermal me te hanga anō o te collagen dermal. E whakaū ana ngā arotake pūnaha me ngā RCT maha i tō rātou whai huatanga ki te whakapai ake i ngā raina angiangi me te hyperpigmentation; heoi, ahakoa ngā retinoid kua whakaaetia e te FDA, kāore e taea te whakakore i te koroheketanga o roto, te whakakore rānei i te totohu hohonu o te hanganga [8].
3. Te Whakapūngao o te Matrix Extracellular (ECM): Ngā rautaki e aro ana ki te hanga collagen Momo I me te III, te aukati i te MMP (matrix metalloproteinase), me te pupuri i ngā taiao moroiti waikawa hyaluronic me te proteoglycan [9].
He rerekē, ko ngā tikanga hou pēnei i te senolytics, te aukati SASP, te whakanui NAD+, te whakahaere mTOR, me te whakarei ake i te autophagy—ahakoa he mea whai hua i roto i te vitro me roto i ngā tauira kararehe—kāore i te rite te pakari haumanu o ngā pare-rā me ngā retinoids mō ngā whakamahinga ā-papa i te tangata.
Wāhanga 02 | Te Kitea o te Mowhiti Collagen®: Te Whakamāori i te Hanganga Ā-ringa hei Whāinga Ārai-Pakeketanga
Ko ngā tauira tawhito mō te ārai i te koroheketanga e arotahi ana ki te nui o te collagen, te tere o te hanga, me te tiaki i te pirau o te whākōkī.
Ka whakauruhia e Ring Collagen® tētahi ariā whakarerekē-pararā: Ahakoa he rawaka te kiato o te collagen kiri, ka ārai te whakaritenga ā-wāhi koretake i te hanganga o tētahi whatunga taumahatanga whai hua, ka kore ai e ranea ngā mahi ārai-pakeketanga ki te ārai i te totohu.
| Paradigm | Wāhanga Arotahi | Tikanga Matua |
| Tikanga tuku iho | Te Kohikohinga Ngota | Te Rahi o te Korāna + Te Parenga ki te Whakangaromanga |
| Te Pakaritanga o te Ring Collagen® | Whatunga Taumata-Kiko | Hanganga Wāhi + Te Takahitanga Mīhini |
Mai i te tirohanga whakarōpūtanga, ehara a Ring Collagen® i te tohu matua o te koroheketanga pērā i te ngoikore o te mitochondrial, te kore pumau o te ira tangata rānei. Engari, he whāinga tika ake, he taumata kiko . Ahakoa e whakamārama ana ngā tohu matua i te kino o te pūtau i tōna pūtake, e whakaatu ana a Ring Collagen® i te whakamaoritanga o te kino iti-tauine ki te heke o te kanohi.
Ko te mea e tino whakahihiri ana i tēnei rangahau ko tōna tirohanga whānui e hono ana i te wae pilosebaceous, ngā proteoglycans, me ngā whatunga collagen. E whakaatu ana ngā rangahau in vitro ko te totoro ā-ringa maha-aronga ngawari ka whakanui ake i te hanga proteoglycan i roto i te kiri kua whakatipuria, ka whakarei ake i te pumau o te mowhiti. Hei tāpiri, ko ngā tangohanga otaota pēnei i te rosehip me te safflower ka whakanui ake i te whakaaturanga ira e pā ana ki te proteoglycan [10].
E whakaatu ana tēnei ka whanake ngā otinga ārai-totoka ā muri ake nei hei tikanga whakauru: Tukunga Whaiaro + Whakaohooho Tinana (Pūrere/Mirimiri) + Aromatawai Koiora-ā-tinana.
Wāhanga 03 | He Tirohanga Whaiaro: Te Whakawhāiti i te Āputa mai i te Kitenga ki te Ao Tūturu Tauhokohoko
Ahakoa e whakatuwhera ana a Ring Collagen® i tētahi ara hou whakahihiri, me aromatawai pono te tirohanga pūtaiao pakari i tōna wāhanga whanaketanga o nāianei.
1. He Kitenga kua Whakamanahia e te Pūtaiao, Ehara i te Mahi Hokohoko
Mā te whakauru i te histology kiko kanohi, te whakatauira koiora-3D ex vivo, me ngā ahurea kiri in vitro, ka whakaū te rangahau i te oranga ā-tinana me te hiranga mahi o Ring Collagen®, e mohiotia ana e te rongonuitanga i ngā huihuinga rongonui pēnei i te IFSCC [4].
2. Ngā Ārai ki te Whakapāhotanga me te Whakamahinga Hauora
Te Kore o te Tāruatanga Motuhake: Ko ngā raraunga kua whakaputaina i tēnei wā, i ahu mai i tētahi rōpū rangahau kotahi; kei te tatari tonu kia tāruatia motuhake, nui puta noa i ngā whare wānanga o te ao.
Ngā Wero Tukunga Whakawhiti Kiri: Kei roto i te kiri hohonu e karapoti ana i ngā pūtake makawe te Ring Collagen®. Kāore anō kia whakamātauhia mēnā ka taea e ngā matū hohe te uru atu ki te arai kiri kia tae atu ai, kia mahi ai hoki ki tēnei whāinga.
Te Ngaro o ngā Raraunga Hauora Tangata: Ko ngā taunakitanga e tautoko ana i te pikinga ake o te proteoglycan, te hanga hou rānei i te hanganga, i ahu mai i ngā tauira ex vivo me in vitro. Kāore anō kia whakahaerehia ngā whakamātautau haumanu nui, matapo-rua e whakaatu ana ka taea e ngā wawaotanga ā-papa te hanga anō i te Ring Collagen® me te hiki ake i te kiri tangata e totoro ana.
Leecosmetic: Te whakamahi rauemi mata mai i nga kamupene rongonui o te ao
Whakapā: https://leecosmetic.com/contactus/
Opaniraa
Ko te kitenga o Ring Collagen® he tauira hou mō te rangahau me te whakawhanaketanga o te tiaki kiri. He whakamaumaharatanga whakamiharo tēnei me neke atu te aromatawai i te koroheketanga o te kiri i te inenga collagen noa iho, engari me whakauru atu ki te hanganga ā-wāhi, ngā taiao moroiti proteoglycan, me ngā āhua taumahatanga kiko.
Tohutoro
1.Mendelson, BC, & Wong, CH (2012). Te hanganga o te mata kua koroheketia me tōna pānga ki te ataahua. Ngā Whare Hauora Pokanga Kirihou o Amerika Te Raki , 20(2), 107–117.
2. Shiseido Company, Limited. (2026, Hōngongoi 6). Ka Kitea e Shiseido te "Ring Collagen®": He Whāinga Koiora Hou i roto i te Dermis e Tūhono Ana i te Pekepeketanga o te Kanohi . Pānui Pāpāho Whaimana a te Kamupene. Tōkyō, Hapani.
3. Te Whare Wānanga Hauora me te Oranga o te Ao (IUHW). (2024). Kōtaha Kaiako me te Hauora: Tākuta Kyoichi Matsuzaki, Tari Pokanga Kirihou me te Whakaora . Tōkyō, Hapani.
4. Hekeretari o te IFSCC. (2022). Ngā Mahi o te Huihuinga IFSCC 32: Ngā Kaitono Pepa 10 Pai rawa atu (Rānana, UK) . Te Rōpū Whakakotahi o te Ao mō ngā Rōpū Kaimahi Matū Whakapaipai.
5. Te Pokapū Rangahau Shiseido me te NIPS. (2022). Te Motu Kiri-Mamati® me te Hangarau 3D o te Hanganga Kiri Perifollicular: Te Tuaka Tohu Wnt16 me ngā Whatunga Collagen Mowhiti-Whakawhitiwhiti Proteoglycan . Whakaaturanga Pūtaiao i te IFSCC 2022.
6.López-Otín, C., Blasco, MA, Partridge, L., Serrano, M., & Kroemer, G. (2023). Nga tohu o te koroheketanga: He ao whanui. Pūtau , 186(2), 243–278.
7.Hughes, MCB, Williams, GM, Baker, P., & Green, AC (2013). Te ārai i te kiri me te ārai i te koroheketanga o te kiri: He whakamātautau matapōkere. Annals of Internal Medicine , 158(11), 781–790.
8.Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, HC, Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Ngā Retinoid i roto i te rongoā i te koroheketanga o te kiri: He tirohanga whānui mō te whai huatanga haumanu me te haumaru. Ngā Wawaotanga Haumanu i roto i te Kaumātuatanga , 1(4), 327–348.
9.Quan, T., & Fisher, GJ (2015). Te tūranga o ngā whakarerekētanga e pā ana ki te pakeketanga o te taiao moroiti o waho o te kiri i roto i te koroheketanga o te kiri tangata: He arotake poto. Gerontology , 61(5), 427–434.
10.Varani, J., Dame, MK, Rittie, L., Fligiel, SE, Kang, S., Fisher, GJ, & Voorhees, JJ (2006). Te hekenga o te hanga collagen i roto i te kiri kua pakeke haere: Ngā tūranga o te whakarerekētanga e pā ana ki te pakeketanga i roto i te mahi fibroblast me te whakaohooho miihini hapa. The American Journal of Pathology , 168(6), 1861–1868.
