Ka taea e te matū tiaki kiri te mahi mō te tiaki kiri microbiome? He whakamārama mō te waikawa propionic biobased

I te 1 o Oketopa 2026, i whakapuaki mana te kamupene hangarau koiora Wīwī a AFYREN (Euronext: ALAFY) i tana mahi tahi me te waitohu tiaki kiri microbiome o Awherika ki te Tonga, a Esse Skincare, ki te whakarewa i te Barrier Rescue, he kirimi whakatika ārai. Koinei te hanganga tiaki kiri tuatahi o te ao e whakaatu ana i te waikawa propionic 100% kua whakapūkaratia hei wāhanga mahi bioactive matua.

I tautokona te pānuitanga e ngā tari hokohoko ataahua o te ao, tae atu ki a Personal Care Insights , Home & Personal Care Middle East & Africa , The Microbiologist , me te pūhara purongo waro whakahou, Renewable Carbon News.

Kei te rauemi mata te tiwhikete COSMOS mō te taiao me te rauropi. He mea whakamiharo te whakarewatanga nā te mea ka whakakore i te tikanga ahumahi kua roa e whakamahia ana: kua roa te waikawa propionic e kiia ana he mea tiaki anake i roto i ngā hanganga whakapaipai. Ahakoa e mōhiotia whānuitia ana ngā waikawa alpha-hydroxy me te waikawa salicylic mō te tango kiri me te whakateretere i te huringa o ngā pūtau o te mata, kei te puta ake te waikawa propionic ehara i te mea he mea whakaū paturopi anake, engari he whakauru me ngā painga tiaki kiri microbiome kua whakamanahia.

Waikawa Propionic: Kua Roa te Whakaaro Hei Kaiwhakaora Whakapaipai Noa

Ko te waikawa propionic he waikawa ngako kukū mekameka poto-waro-toru, ko te tātai ngota C₃H₆O₂, ko te tātai hanganga CH₃CH₂COOH, ā, ko te taumaha ngota he 74.08. I te pāmahana taiao, ka puta mai he wai kore tae me te kakara kawa, kawa, e māmā ai te tautuhi. Ka taea te whakaranu ki te wai, ā, ko te pāmahana kohua o te hau e tata ana ki te 141 °C.

Hei waikawa rauropi, ko tōna whai huatanga patu huakita he tino whakawhirinaki ki te pH. I raro i ngā āhuatanga waikawa, ka pehi motuhake i te horapa o ngā harore me ngā huakita. Nā konei, kua whakamahia i roto i ngā tohutao whakapaipai hei mea tiaki, hei mea patu koiora me te whakatikatika pH. Kei roto i te pātengi raraunga EU CosIng ōna mahi whakapaipai hei mea patu huakita, hei mea tiaki, hei mea kakara me te kaiwhakahaere pH. Kei roto i te Rārangi Rauemi Mata Whakapaipai Kua Whakamahia (NMPA) o Haina (Putanga 2021) te whakarōpūtanga kotahi. Neke atu i te kotahi rau ngā hua whakapaipai kua rēhitatia turetia ki Haina kei roto te waikawa propionic, ā, kua whakakorehia te nuinga o aua tuku mai i taua wā.

E whakaatu ana te arotakenga o ngā pātengi raraunga whakatakotoranga o te ao ko te waikawa propionic te mea tino kitea i roto i ngā mea whakapaipai tae. Ko te MAC Studio Fix Soft Matte Foundation Stick me te Wander Beauty On-The-Glow Blush me te Illuminator e rua e whakarārangi ana i te waikawa propionic hei tiaki i ngā hua. I roto i ngā mahi tiaki kiri, ko ngā whakatakotoranga tawhito pēnei i te NeoGenesis Salicylic Acid Gel me te AVON Clearskin Deep Pore Cleansing Scrub i whakauruhia te matū hei tiaki i ngā hua mai i te pirau, kaua ki te whakarerekē i te microbiome kiri. Ka ara ake he pātai nui: me pēhea te huri i tētahi kai e whakamahia ana i mua hei patu i ngā moroiti poke me te whakaroa i te roa o te oranga o te papa hei mahi whakatika microbiome? Kei roto i ngā whanaketanga nui i roto i te R&D whakapaipai i ngā tau tata nei te whakautu.

He aha i kore ai i whakamahia te waikawa propionic i mua hei whakarerekē i te microbiome kiri taketake

Ka taea e te waikawa propionic te whakaputa i ngā painga tiaki kiri mai i te microbiome? Mō ngā tau maha, i whakahaerehia e te umanga whakapaipai i raro i te whakaaro whānui ko tana mahi paturopi whānui-whānui he taupatupatu ki ngā mātāpono matua o te microbiome - ahakoa kāore tēnei i te kī kāore he pūmanawa koiora o te ngota ngota.

I te whānui haere o te whakamahi i ngā whāinga tiaki kiri e aro ana ki te microbiome, ka tīmata ngā kaihanga ki te tūhura i te whānuitanga o ngā momo whakauru. Ko te arotahi o te tiaki kiri microbiome ko te pupuri i ngā tipu kiri pumau, te poipoi i ngā moroiti whai hua me te whakaiti i ngā tohu mumura.

Ina whakamahia hei mea tiaki, ka ārai whānuitia te waikawa propionic i ngā huakita. I ngā tere utaina o ngā mea tiaki noa, kāore e taea te wehewehe i waenga i ngā huakita mate me ngā huakita whai hua e noho ana i runga i te kiri, ka pehi noa i te mahi a ngā huakita. Ka whakararuraru katoa te pehitanga huakita kore-whiriwhiri i te microbiome taketake o te kiri.

Nā tēnei i hua ake ai te whakaae whānuitia o te umanga: ko ngā kai i hangaia mō te tiaki i ngā huakita paturopi whānui kāore i te pai mō te whakatikatika i ngā tipu kiri taketake. Nō reira, ko ngā rangahau me ngā whanaketanga tiaki kiri microbiome o mua i karohia te waikawa propionic, me te pai ake ki ngā momo ngawari ake tae atu ki ngā momo probiotic ora, ngā prebiotics, ngā tātaritanga whakapūtanga postbiotic me te waikawa lactic.

He aha ngā mea i whakarerekētia hei whakahohe i te whakamahinga o te waikawa propionic i roto i te tiaki kiri microbiome?

I hangaia anō tēnei māramatanga e tētahi rangahau nui i te tau 2022 i roto i te Journal of Experimental Medicine , ā, i hurahia ai te pūmanawa nui mō te waikawa propionic i roto i te whakahaere i ngā microbiome kiri.

I arahina ngātahitia te rangahau e te tīma a Ahorangi Wei Li i te Hōhipera Huashan, Te Whare Wānanga o Fudan, me te rōpū a Ahorangi Xu Yao i te Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences & Peking Union Medical College Hospital, Institute of Dermatology. Ko Tākuta Zhuoqiong Qiu te kaituhi tuatahi; i whakaurua ki te tīma rangahau he 14 ngā kairangahau pērā i a Zhulai Zhu rāua ko Xiaochun Liu. Ko te pepa, ko te taitara ko A dysregulated sebum–microbial metabolite–IL-33 axis initiates skin inflammation in atopic dermatitis , i tautuhia te sebum–microbial metabolite–IL-33 signaling axis hei tino take o te pathogenesis o te atopic dermatitis.

I kohia e te tīma rangahau ngā tauira kiri kanohi mai i ngā tūao hauora me ngā tūroro e ora ana me te atopic dermatitis (AD) hei tātaritanga whakatairite. I whakaatuhia e ngā tūroro AD he iti ake te taumata sebum me te iti iho o te kukū kiri o te propionate i ahu mai i te microbial ki te whakataurite ki ngā mana hauora. I whakaatuhia e ngā rangahau i muri mai mā te whakamahi i te tauira murine AD i puta mai i te MC903 ko te paninga propionate ā-papa i whakaiti i te tukunga IL-33 mai i ngā keratinocytes me te whakaiti i te mumura kiri. Ka mahi tēnei pānga whakarerekētanga mā te pehi i te HDAC2/3 me te whakahohe i te ara tohu AhR.

I whakahaerehia e te tīma tētahi whakamātautau haumanu iti hei whakaatu i te ariā, e whakauru ana i ngā kaiuru he mate kiri kiri ngawari ki te pāngia e te mate kiri atopic. Nā te paninga o te propionate ki te kiri i ngā kukū e tika ana mō te tinana i whakaiti i ngā kaute mumura o te whara, me te kore e whakaoho i te whakararuraru nui, te riri rānei o te microbiome.

Ko te whakatau matua o te rangahau e whakatū ana i tētahi paepae mārama: ko te horopeta me te whakamahinga e tika ana te whakahaere i te putanga koiora o te waikawa propionic. I ngā reiti whakaurunga teitei e whakamahia ana mō te tiaki, ka mahi te waikawa propionic hei biocide whānui e aro ana ki ngā rauropi pirau i roto i tētahi hua. Ina whakamahia hei microbiome hohe, ko te propionate he metabolite tūturu i hangaia e ngā huakita kiri commensal pērā i te Cutibacterium acnes . Ki te whakamahia i ngā kukū iti, ā-tinana e tika ana, kāore e whakakore i ngā tipu kiri pai; engari, ka āwhina i te whakahoki mai i te homeostasis kiri.

I roto i ngā kupu māmā, ka mahi te waikawa propionic hei "karere pākia" i roto i te microbiome kiri. Ko tōna whanonga tiaki he pānga tuarua e kitea ana i ngā kukū tiketike, ko tōna tūranga koiora taketake i roto i te pūnaha rauropi kiri ko te mahi ārai-mumura me te whakahaere ārai. I mua i tēnei whakaputanga, i arotahi noa te umanga ataahua ki tōna kaha patu huakita, ā, i warewarehia tana mahi tohu.

I roto i te panuitanga pāpāho o Hakihea 2025, i kī a Nicolas Sordet, te Tumu Whakarae o AFYREN, i tana panuitanga i te hononga mahi tahi: "E whakaatu ana tēnei me pēhea te whakatuwheratanga o ngā whai wāhitanga hou e te hangarau koiora mō te mahi me te pumau i roto i ngā mea whakapaipai e hua mai ai ngā painga tūturu ki te tangata me te taiao. Kei te tumanako mātou ki te kite i ngā hua tuatahi e tae atu ana ki ngā kaihoko."

I tāpiri atu a Joachim Merziger, te Tumuaki Tauhokohoko o AFYREN, i roto i ngā kōrero pāpāho whai muri i te whakarewatanga o te Barrier Rescue: "E whakaatu ana tēnei hononga mahi tahi me pēhea te whakatuwhera i ngā whai wāhitanga hou mō te mahi me te pumau i roto i ngā mea whakapaipai, me te kawe mai i ngā painga tūturu mō te tangata me te ao. E tino whakahīhī ana mātou ki te kite i ngā hua tuatahi e tae atu ana ki ngā kaihoko."

Neke atu i te tekau tau te roa o te rangahau a te kaiwhakaū o Esse Skincare, a Trevor Steyn, i te microbiome kiri, ā, ko ia tētahi o ngā paionia tuatahi e tautoko ana i te nekehanga mai i te hanganga e aro ana ki te taumahatanga ki te whanaketanga e arahina ana e te metabolite. I roto i tētahi uiuinga waitohu, i whakamārama ia ko te rangahau microbiome tuatahi i aro nui ki te whakauru i ngā huakita ora, e pāngia ana e ngā herenga nui o te pumau me te urunga kiri ki roto i ngā turanga whakapaipai. I whakaatuhia e te mahi a tana tīma e mahere ana i ngā ara metabolic sebum ko te tāpiri i ngā metabolites e tukuna ana e ngā moroiti kiri, pērā i te waikawa propionic, he huarahi tika ake ki te whakahaere i te tohu mumura.

Ngā Whanaketanga Whakarara i waenga i ngā Kaiwhakarato Rauemi Mata Hainamana

Kei te whakatairangahia hoki e ngā kaihanga kai Hainamana ngā mahi i tēnei mara.

I tētahi whakaaturanga kai, i whakapuaki a Shanghai UniVOOK (Bailuo Hualian Chemical) kua whakanuia e rātou te hanga o te waikawa propionic 100% koiora kua whakamanahia e SGS, i hangaia mā te whakapūtanga moroiti. Heoi anō, i raro i te anga ture whakapaipai o Haina, kei te whakarōpūhia tonutia te waikawa propionic hei rauemi mata tiaki anake. He wero hanganga ōrite kei te aroaro o te rāngai: ko te ngota matū tonu kāore i rerekē, engari kua tino whakaarohia anō ngā whāinga hanga me ngā take R&D. He maha ngā wā ka noho whakamuri ngā rarangi rauemi mata ture i ngā kitenga pūtaiao hou e pā ana ki te moroiti kiri.

I te hui whakanui i ngā kai whakapaipai, i kī te kaiārahi matua o te R&D o Shandong Hongda Group, kua roa te kamupene e whakaputa ana i te waikawa propionic kua whakapūkaratia mai i te māngaro kānga. I ngā tau kua pahure ake nei, ko te aukati me te tiaki i te pokepokea ai te mea i hiahiatia e te kiritaki. I ngā tau tata nei, kua tae mai ngā pātai ki te kamupene mai i ngā waitohu tiaki kiri o Haina e hiahia ana ki te whakamātautau i te waikawa propionic mō te whakatika ārai me ngā tono microbiome, ahakoa kei te pakari haere tonu ngā anga aromatawai whai huatanga paerewa mō ēnei kereme.

Ngā Pānga Whānui o te Ahumahi mō ngā Waitohu Whakapaipai

Ko te whanaketanga o te waikawa propionic mai i te matū tiaki ki te matū hohe o te microbiome e whakaatu ana i tētahi panonitanga whānui i roto i te rangahau me te whakawhanaketanga tiaki kiri microbiome, ā, he hua roa tēnei mō ngā pakihi whakapaipai.

Tuatahi, ka whakatuwherahia he ara auaha hou mō ngā rauemi mata kua whakarārangihia.

Ko te auahatanga o ngā kai whakapaipai tuku iho e whakawhirinaki ana ki te kimi i ngā ngota hou me te tuku i ngā tuku rauemi mata hou - he tukanga puhoi, he nui te pūtea. E whakaatu ana te take waikawa propionic he maha ngā waikawa rauropi kua roa e kiia ana he mea tiaki noa iho, he mea whakatikatika pH, he mea chelating rānei, kei roto i a rātou te pūmanawa koiora kāore anō kia whakamahia. Mā tēnei ka hangaia he ara whanaketanga microbiome iti te utu, he mea tutuki hoki mō ngā waitohu Hainamana iti kāore he rauemi hei tono mō ngā whakaaetanga rauemi mata hou.

Hei whakamārama, i mua ko ngā AHA he mea tango kiri ngawari me ngā whakarerekē pH anake. I muri mai ka whakaū ngā kairangahau ko te waikawa lactic, he matū waro mekameka poto i hangaia e ngā lactobacilli epidermal, ka whakanui ake i te hanganga matū whakamakuku taiao me te pupuri i te arai ārai waikawa ngoikore o te kiri. Ka whakakotahi a L'Oréal me tana waitohu La Roche-Posay i tana "AP+M Microbiome Remodelling Technology" me te waikawa lactic iti-horopeta me ngā postbiotics hei tautoko i te arai kiri i roto i ngā tūroro e pāngia ana e te eczema atopic. Ka hangaia e Gallinée, he kamupene Unilever, tana putea tiaki kiri microbiome huri noa i te waikawa lactic me ngā postbiotics i ahu mai i te lactobacillus.

Tuarua, ko te kitenga nei e tohu ana i tētahi nekehanga nui i roto i te arotahi o te R&D microbiome ki te mea e kiia nei e te tini ko te "wā metabolite".

Kei te neke haere ngā kaupapa matua o te rangahau i tua atu i te tautuhi i ngā momo huakita e noho ana i te kiri, engari kei te haere tonu ki te tirotiro i ngā matū whakaputa i hangaia e aua moroiti, me te pehea e whakahaere ai ēnei matū whakaputa i te ārai mate o te keratinocyte me te tohu mumura. Kei te piki haere te rahinga o ngā rangahau, ā, kei te arotahi ki ngā whāinga.

He maha ngā pepa rangahau mai i ngā tīma a Tākuta Althea (Euromed, Freda Biotech) kua tīpakohia hei whakaaturanga ki ngā Huihuinga IFSCC e whai ana i tēnei aronga rangahau anō, arā, te mahere i ngā koropiko urupare o te hinu me te waikawa ngako mekameka-poto. Ka whakamahia e te rōpū Freda Biotech te metabolomics ki ngā ōwehenga kōtaha o ngā waikawa ngako mekameka-poto me ngā waikawa ngako kore utu i hangaia e ngā moroiti epidermal e tukatuka ana i te hinu kiri.

Kua whakamanahia e Shiseido tana rautaki Arotahi ki te Kiri Microbiome , e arotahi ana ki te rangahau i runga i te glycerol me ngā metabolites waro mekameka poto i hangaia e Staphylococcus epidermidis . I whakapumautia e tana pokapū rangahau ko ngā metabolites waro i hangaia e ngā huakita kiri whai hua ka whakahohe i ngā kaiwhakawhiwhi keratinocyte me te whakanui ake i te whakaaturanga o ngā pūmua hononga-tight pēnei i a Claudin‑1. Nā tēnei rangahau i tautoko te whakanoho anō i te whānuitanga o te kaupapa d a Shiseido, i hangaia hei whakanui ake i te whakaputanga o ngā metabolites moroiti whai hua mō te tiaki microbiome kua arotahihia.

Tuatoru, ka puta mai i tēnei ia ngā mōrearea arumoni me ngā mōrearea ture hou.

Me mārama te kōrero a ngā waitohu ki ngā kaihoko me ngā kaiwhakahaere he rerekē ngā pānga o te kai kotahi i runga i te kukū me te pH o te hanganga: ka tiakina e te waikawa propionic horopeta nui te pumau o te hua me te pumau o te whata, ko ngā kukū iti o te tinana e tautoko ana i te whakatika i te arai, ā, kāore ēnei mahi e wehea tetahi ki tetahi. I roto i te pūnaha tuku tuhinga o Haina, ko te mahi rēhita o te waikawa propionic kei te noho tonu hei tiaki. Me tino wehea e ngā waitohu ngā whakaaturanga tuku tuhinga mai i ngā karere hokohoko kia kore ai e whai take, e whakanuia rānei.

He maha ngā wā kua raru ngā waitohu ataahua ma ki ngā tūponotanga pumau me te pirau e pā ana ki ngā hanganga kore-whakaora. Ko te tauira Esse me te AFYREN e whakamahi ana i te 100% waikawa propionic fermented biobased. I roto i ēnei hanganga, ka tutuki i te kai ngā paearu tiwhikete taiao COSMOS / ECOCERT me te mahi takirua: he tiaki āwhina ngawari me te utaina iti me te mahi whakatika arai postbiotic-rite.

He mea tika kia matapaetia, i te whānui haere o ngā rangahau mō ngā waikawa ngako mekameka poto, ka arotakehia anōtia ngā waikawa rauropi tiaki tikanga, ā, ka whakamahia anōtia hei painga hou mō te kiri.

Leecosmetic: Te whakamahi rauemi mata mai i nga kamupene rongonui o te ao

Rārangi Tohu

1. Pānui Pāpāho Whaimana a AFYREN: Te whakarewatanga ā-ao o te hua whakapaipai i ahu mai i te waikawa propionic tūturu 100% a AFYREN
2. Ngā Tirohanga Tiaki Whaiaro: I whakarewahia e Esse te waikawa propionic kore-matū hinu Afyren i roto i te kirimi kiri microbiome
3. Qiu Z, et al. Ka tīmata te mumura o te kiri i roto i te dermatitis atopic nā te koretake o te mahi a te sebum–microorganism metabolite–IL-33 axis. Te Pukapuka Rongoā Whakamātautau, 2022, 219(10): e20212397
4. Te whakaurunga pātengi raraunga CosIng EU mō te waikawa Propionic
5. Ngā Pūrongo Waro Whakahou: Te whakarewatanga o te hua whakapaipai ā-ao i ahu mai i te waikawa propionic tūturu 100% a AFYREN
6. Whārangi hua mana a UniVOOK mō te waikawa propionic biobased
7. IFSCC – Te Rōpū Whakakotahi o Ngā Rōpū Matū Whakapaipai o te Ao, te putunga whakarāpopototanga rangahau (ngā pepa waikawa ngako mekameka poto me te koiora kiri)
8. Tirohanga whānui o te Kaupapa Rangahau Momo Kiri Shiseido
9. Rangahau Microbiome La Roche-Posay me te Pūtaiao Postbiotic
10. Rārangi Rauemi Mata o te Whakapaipai kua Whakamahia (Putanga 2021 tomokanga mana)