Njengenye yezindlela zokulwa nokuguga ezifunwa kakhulu, umfutho wemakethe ye-retinol usuqalile ukushintsha. I-HBN, uhlobo lokunakekelwa kwesikhumba lwaseShayina olulwa nokuguga, idale i-molecule entsha yokulwa nokuguga, i-Bakuchiol Ferulate, isebenzisa ubuchwepheshe bokwakha kabusha isakhiwo sama-molecule.

Muva nje, i -Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (JCD) , ijenali ehamba phambili yamazwe ngamazwe ebukezwe ontanga besikhumba, ishicilele ucwaningo olusha olubhalwe yithimba le-R&D le-Shenzhen Hujia Technology, inkampani engumzali we-HBN. Isitolo sezobuchwepheshe bezimonyo saphesheya kwezilwandle i-Personal Care Insights siphinde saxoxa ngalokhu okutholakele ngo-Agasti 6, 2026: Ithimba le-R&D le-HBN liphumelele ukuhlanganisa i-molecule entsha ebizwa ngokuthi i-Bakuchiol Ferulate (efushaniswe ngokuthi i-BF).

Ucwaningo lobuhle oluvela ku-Shenzhen HBN Technology luveza i-bakuchiol ferulate — i-hybrid entsha yama-molecule eyenziwe nge-bakuchiol kanye ne-ferulic acid — njengendlela ezinzile, ebekezelelwa kahle, futhi ephumelelayo esikhundleni se-retinol yokulwa nokuguga. Ababhali balolu cwaningo baqokomisa ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwe-retinol njengesithako esinamandla esisebenzayo sokunciphisa imibimbi kuvame ukulinganiselwa ukungazinzi kwamakhemikhali ayo kanye nokucasuka kwesikhumba esibucayi.

I-bakuchiol etholakala ezitshalweni ibhalwe phansi ngemiphumela yayo yangaphandle efana neye-retinoids, njengoba zombili lezi zinhlanganisela ziqala izindlela ezifanayo zokubonakaliswa kwezakhi zofuzo futhi zithuthukisa isikhumba esithathwe isithombe ngendlela efanayo.

Ngokungafani nezinhlanganisela zomzimba ezivamile ze-"bakuchiol + ferulic acid" ezitholakala kabanzi emakethe, i-BF ihlanganisa lezi zinto ezimbili ngamakhemikhali ngokusebenzisa i-covalent bonding ukuze yakhe ukwakheka kwama-molecule okusha okusekelwe ku-ester. Ilungelo lobunikazi lamazwe ngamazwe le-PCT elimboza lobu buchwepheshe lashicilelwa ngokusemthethweni ngoMashi 2026, kanti okubaluleke kakhulu kusukela ngoSepthemba 2024. Abantu abangaphakathi embonini baphawula ukuthi lolu cwaningo lubonisa ushintsho lweqhinga le-HBN kusukela kumdlali wokwakheka oqediwe ongezansi ukuya kumsunguli wama -molecule asebenzayo ezimonyo.

I. Kungani Kwenziwa Ubunjiniyela Bokuhlela Kabusha Kwama-Molecular ku-Bakuchiol?

I-Retinol kanye nezinto ezitholakala kuyo sekuyisikhathi eside ziyizinto ezijwayelekile zegolide zokunciphisa i-photoaging futhi zijabulela ukuthambekela okuqinile emakethe. Ziguqula izindlela ezibalulekile zezakhi zofuzo ukuze zilwe nezindlela zokuguga kwe-photo futhi zisheshise ukujika kwe-keratinocyte. Iningi lezinhlobo zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ezinamandla kakhulu zokulwa nemibimbi ezivela kumikhiqizo efaka phakathi i-SkinCeuticals, i-Neutrogena, i-Murad, i-HBN kanye ne-Proya zithembele ezithakweni ze-retinoid.

Noma kunjalo, i-retinol ayiphelele neze. Nakuba amandla ayo okulwa nokuguga esungulwe kahle, inezinkinga eziphawulekayo: naphezu kokusebenza kwayo okuphezulu, ivame ukubangela i-erythema, ukubola kwesikhumba, ukuhlaba kanye nokukhubazeka kwesikhumba. Ukuthambekela kwayo ekuwohlokeni okubangelwa ukukhanya, ukushisa kanye nomoya-mpilo kusalokhu kuyisithiyo esiqhubekayo kososayensi bezimonyo.

Le nselele yobuchwepheshe ibonakale inzima ukuyixazulula ngokuphelele. Ukushintsha i-retinol ngamakhemikhali ukuze iphule uhlelo lwayo oluhlanganisiwe lwe-double bond kuthuthukisa ukuzinza kodwa kusula ukusebenza kwayo kokuguga. I-Nano encapsulation ingenye indlela yokuxazulula: ukufakwa kwe-capsulation okuqinile kuvimbela okusebenzayo ukuthi kuguquke kube yi-bioactive retinoic acid ngaphakathi kwezendlalelo zesikhumba eziqondiwe, kuyilapho ukufakwa kwe-capsulation okunganele kungadala ukucasuka okukhulu kwesikhumba ngokushesha.

Ngakho-ke iBakuchiol ithole ukuthandwa emhlabeni wonke njengenye indlela yokushintsha i-retinol. Esivivinyweni somtholampilo esilawulwayo esiphindwe kabili esingamasonto ayi-12 (abantu abangu-44, abangu-0.5% bakuchiol vs abangu-0.5% retinol), i-bakuchiol inikeze ukuthuthuka okufanayo ekunciphisweni kwe-hyperpigmentation kanye nokunciphisa imibimbi ngemiphumela emibi embalwa kakhulu njenge-erythema kanye nokuqhekeka. Noma kunjalo, isimo se-bakuchiol njengenye indlela ye-retinol sisaphikiswana ngaso ezifundweni. Ukubuyekezwa okuhlelekile kuka-2024 okuhlanganisa izivivinyo zemitholampilo zabantu ezingu-15 kuveze ukuthi ezingu-12 zalezo zifundo kwakuyizivivinyo ezingalawuliwe zelebula elivulekile kanye nezingxube zezithako eziningi ezingu-10 ezisetshenziswe, okushiya indlela yayo yokusebenza ibuzwa kabanzi.

Ukuhlaziywa Kokubekezelelwa Komuntu kanye Nokuqoshwa Kwe-Transcriptomic

Ukubekezeleleka kwabantu kuhlolwe esivivinyweni se-patch esihlanganisiwe sezinsuku ezingu-14 esihilela abantu abadala abanempilo. Amazinga amaningi e-BF asukela ku-0.05% kuya ku-1.0% aqhathaniswa namazinga e-retinol angu-0.05%, 0.1%, kanye no-0.3%. Zonke izinhlobo ze-BF zahlukaniswa njengezingacasuli ngokusekelwe ku-Mean Cumulative Irritancy Index yazo (MCII), kufaka phakathi amazinga aphezulu kakhulu angu-1.0%. Ngokuphambene nalokho, i-retinol engu-0.3% yahlukaniswa njengokucasula kancane, kuyilapho amazinga aphansi e-retinol ahlala engacasuli.

I-HBN yalandela indlela ehlukile. Esikhundleni sokusetshenziswa okulula kokukhishwa kwezitshalo ezingavuthiwe, ithimba lenze ukuguqulwa kwezinga lama-molecule: i-ferulic acid, ingxenye ye-antioxidant, ihlanganiswa ngamakhemikhali ne-bakuchiol ngokusebenzisa i-esterification. Lokhu kulondoloza izindlela zokuqala zokubonisa izimpawu zokulwa nokuguga ze-bakuchiol ngenkathi kulungiswa imikhawulo yayo yobuchwepheshe engokwemvelo.

II. Ukusebenza Okulinganisiwe kwe-Bakuchiol Ferulate Entsha Yokulwa Nokuguga

Idatha yokuhlola eshicilelwe ku -JCD kanye namafayela e-patent ahlobene nayo ikhombisa ukusebenza okuqinile kwe-BF kuzo zonke izindlela zokuhlola eziningi:

• Ukuhlolwa kokuzinza kokukhanya kwezinsuku ezingama-90: Ngaphansi kwezimo zokukhanya kwelanga okuqhubekayo, i-BF igcina ngaphezu kwama-86% we-bioactivity yayo yokuqala — cishe umsebenzi osele ophakeme ngama-80% uma kuqhathaniswa ne-retinol. Igebe libalulekile ngokwezibalo.
• Ukuhlolwa kokuwohloka kokushisa okusheshayo ku-48 °CI-BF ikhombisa ukuwohloka okuncane; i-retinol igcina u-8% kuphela womsebenzi wayo wokuqala.
• Izinzuzo zokusebenzisa kahle izindleko zokukhiqiza: Ukuzinza okuphezulu kwe-BF kunciphisa kakhulu ukulahlekelwa kwezithako ezisebenzayo kulo lonke umjikelezo wokukhiqiza kanye nokuphila kweshalofu. Izakhi ze-retinol ezivamile zidinga izindlela zokunciphisa ezibizayo okuhlanganisa ukupakishwa kokuvimbela ukukhanya, ukugcwalisa okuhlanjululwe nge-nitrogen kanye nobuchwepheshe bokufaka i-capsulation, okunyusa izindleko zizonke.
• Inkomba Yobuthi Be-Phototoxicity (PIF)Ukuhlolwa kwe-in vitro phototoxicity kuveza inani le-PIF elingu-1.14 kuphela le-BF, okuqinisekisa izakhiwo ezingezona ezobuthi. I-Retinol ibhalise i-PIF engu-5.64, okubonisa ingozi enkulu yokuba yingozi.
• Ukuhlolwa kokucasuka komuntu kwezinsuku eziyi-14 (MCII)Ukuhlolwa kwe-patch yokugxilisa okuningi kuqinisekisa ukuthi i-BF (0.05% - 1.0%) ayivezi zimpendulo zokucasuka kwesikhumba futhi ihlukaniswe njenge-non-carritating ngokwe-Mean Cumulative Irritancy Index. Uma kuqhathaniswa, i-retinol engu-0.3% isivele ikhiqiza ukucasuka kwesikhumba okuncane.
• Ukufana kwendlela eqondiwe: Iphrofayili ye-transcriptomic ibuyisela i-coefficient yokuxhumana ephezulu njengo-0.89 phakathi kwe-BF ne-retinol. Womabili la ma-compound avuselela ukuqhubekela phambili komjikelezo weseli, ukuphindaphindwa kwe-DNA kanye nezindlela zokulungisa i-DNA.
• Nqamula ekusebenzeni kwezakhi zofuzo ezibangela ukuvuvukala kanye ne-apoptosis: Ngenkathi i-retinol isebenza ekulweni nokuguga, ilawula ngasikhathi sinye izindlela ezihlobene ne-p53, abaxhumanisi be-apoptosis, ama-cytokines abangela ukuvuvukala kanye nezakhi zofuzo ezihlobene ne-necroptosis. I-BF igwema ukuvusa lezi zimpendulo zebhayoloji ezibangela ukuvuvukala nokuzwela.

Ukuqhathaniswa Kokusebenza: BF vs Retinol

Ukuqinisekiswa Kwezokwelapha kwe-Bakuchiol Ferulate

Esifundweni sabantu esingenaso ubuso obubili esihleliwe, esingenaso ubuso obubili esibandakanya abantu abangu-30, i-1.0% BF inikeze ukuthuthuka okulinganiselwe ekuqineni kwesikhumba, ukusebenza kwezithiyo kanye nokumuncwa kwamanzi esikhumbeni. Ithimba le-R&D le-HBN lithi izivivinyo ezinkulu zemitholampilo zabantu ezithatha amasonto angu-8-12 ziyalungiselelwa, ukuqinisekisa ukusebenza kwayo ekunciphiseni imibimbi ejulile.

III. Isikhathi “Sezinhlayiya Ezinobunjiniyela Obungokwezifiso”

Ukuguqulwa kwe-HBN kwezinto ezisetshenziswayo zokuhlobisa akulona icala elizimele. Ukulungiswa kwama-molecule okuqondiwe kwezithako ezisebenzayo ezikhona sekuyindlela evelele yocwaningo nentuthuko phakathi kwezinkampani eziphambili zezinto zokuhlobisa zomhlaba wonke:

• 2024: I-Grant Industries, inkampani enkulu yomhlaba wonke yezinto ezingavuthiwe, yethule i-Bakuchiol Ester BCR, yaqala ukuthuthukiswa kwama-molecule atholakala ku-bakuchiol.
• Ephreli 2026: I-Grant Industries, ngokubambisana ne-Bio Component Research, ikhiphe i-Bakuchiol NAD+ BCR. Le molekyuli entsha ye-ester ihlanganisa i-bakuchiol ne-niacin ngamakhemikhali, yandisa ukufinyelela kwayo kwezinto eziphilayo kumetabolism yamandla eqhutshwa yi-NAD+ kanye nokulungiswa kwe-DNA.
• 2000‑2003: I-Ascorbyl Retinoate: Ihlanganisa i-vitamin C (i-ascorbic acid) kanye ne-retinoic acid. Ingxenye ye-vitamin C isebenza njengesivikelo esivikelayo esingaphakathi kwe-molecule, iqinisa isakhiwo se-retinoic acid futhi inciphise ama-cascade ayo akhuthaza ukuvuvukala.
• 1992-1995: I-Tocopheryl RetinoateI-Shiseido ihlanganisa i-vitamin E (i-tocopherol) kanye ne-retinoic acid ngamakhemikhali ukuze kuncishiswe ukucasuka kwe-epidermal barrier ebangelwa yi-retinoic acid.
• 1993-1995: LHA (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, L'Oréal)Abacwaningi be-L'Oréal banamathisela uchungechunge lwe-capryloyl long carbon ku-salicylic acid. I-Modified LHA inikeza isenzo sebhayoloji esinembile futhi iqeda ingozi yokucasuka kwesikhumba okuqhumayo.
• I-Lipophilic Vitamin C (VC-IP / Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): I-Nikkol Chemical ifaka amaqembu amane e-isopalmitate emgogodleni we-vitamin C, ivikela amaqembu ayo e-enolic hydroxyl asengozini yokubola.
• I-Tetrahydrocurcumin: I-Curcumin iyi-antioxidant enamandla kodwa inombala ophuzi oqinile. Abakhiqizi bezinto ezingavuthiwe baguqula i-curcumin nge-hydrogenation ibe yi-tetrahydrocurcumin engenambala, engenabala, enamandla yokulwa nokuthatha izithombe.

IV. Umongo Wemakethe Yezimali

NgoJanuwari 2026, iShenzhen Hujia Technology, inkampani engumzali we-HBN, yathumela isicelo sayo se-IPO saseHong Kong Stock Exchange. Ukufakwa kwaphela ngoJulayi 27 2026 lapho kuphela iwindi lokubuyekezwa kwezinyanga eziyisithupha. Ngo-Agasti 11, iHujia Technology yakhipha isitatimende somphakathi esiqinisekisa ukuthi iphrojekthi yayo ye-IPO iyaqhubeka nokuthuthuka njengoba bekuhleliwe.

Isikhathi eside, abathintekayo emakethe yezimali bebelokhu bekhathazekile ngemikhiqizo yobuhle yaseShayina, okungukuthi “ukuthembela ngokweqile ekukhangiseni, ukutshalwa kwezimali okwanele kwe-R&D” kanye nokuthembela kakhulu kubaphakeli bezinto zokusetshenziswa ezivela eceleni. Kusukela kumalungelo obunikazi ashicilelwe kuya emiphumeleni yejenali ebuyekezwe ontanga, i-BF ikhombisa izinga eliphezulu lokuvuthwa kobuchwepheshe. Noma kunjalo, ukuthengiswa ngempumelelo kwale molekyuli entsha kusadinga ukunqoba izithiyo ezintathu ezinkulu: ukwenziwa okukhulu okungabizi kakhulu, ukubhaliswa kokulawula kwezithako zobuhle ezintsha (INCI / IECIC), kanye nedatha yesikhathi eside yemitholampilo eqopha ukusebenza kahle kokunciphisa imibimbi.

I-Leecosmetic: Ukusebenzisa izinto ezingavuthiwe ezivela ezinkampanini ezidumile emhlabeni jikelele

Okubhekwayo

1. Ithimba Locwaningo Nokuthuthukiswa Kwezobuchwepheshe iShenzhen Hujia. (2026). Ukwenziwa, Ukuphrofayilisha Kwe-Transcriptomic, kanye Nokuhlolwa Kwezokwelapha kwe-Bakuchiol Ferulate Njengendlela Ezinzile Ye-Retinoid . I-Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 25(8), e14208.

2.Ferrer, B. (2026, Agasti 6). Ucwaningo luthole ukuthi i-Bakuchiol ferulate ifana nokusebenza kahle kwe-retinol kanye nokucasuka okuncane kwesikhumba . Ukuqonda Kokunakekelwa Komuntu Siqu.

3. Inhlangano Yomhlaba Yempahla Yobuhlakani (i-WIPO). (2026, Mashi). I-Phenolic Ester Derivatives kanye Nezicelo Zobuhle Zayo (I-PCT Patent Publication No. WO2026048123A1; Usuku Lokuqala mhla ziyi-13 kuMandulo, 2024).

4.Dhaliwal, S., et al. (2019). Ukuhlolwa okulindelwe, okungahleliwe, okungaboni kabili kwe-bakuchiol kanye ne-retinol yokwelapha ukuguga kobuso . I-British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296.

5. Iqembu Lokubuyekeza Isayensi Yesikhumba. (2024). Ikhwalithi Yendlela kanye Nobufakazi Bezokwelapha Bezindlela Ezihlukile Ze-Phytochemical Retinoid: Ukubuyekezwa Okuhlelekile . I-International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 46(3), 312–325.

6. I-Hujia Technology Research Institute. (2026). I-In Vitro Phototoxicity (PIF) kanye nokuhlolwa kwe-Human Cumulative Patch Testing (MCII) ye-Bakuchiol Ferulate Formulations (Technical White Paper No. HT-RND-2026-04).

7. Ucwaningo Lwezingxenye Zezimboni Neze-Bio. (2026, Ephreli). Sethula i-Bakuchiol NAD+ BCR: Ama-Meroterpenes Ahlanganiswe yi-Niacin Ezindlela Zokuphila Isikhathi Eside . Ubuchwepheshe Bokunakekelwa Komuntu Siqu Namuhla.

8. Isichazamazwi Sezithako Zobuhle Zamazwe Ngamazwe kanye Nencwadi Yesandla. (2022). Idatha Yokwenziwa Komlando Nokuguqulwa Kwamakhemikhali Yama-Esters Ezobuhle (LHA, Ascorbyl Retinoate, Tocopheryl Retinoate) (uhlelo lwe-18). UMkhandlu Wemikhiqizo Yokunakekelwa Komuntu Siqu.

9. I-Hong Kong Exchanges and Clearing Limited (HKEX). (2026, Agasti 11). Isibuyekezo Senkampani Esimweni Sesicelo Sebhodi Elikhulu: I-Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd.

10. Ukuphathwa Kwemikhiqizo Yezokwelapha Kazwelonke (i-NMPA) / i-European Chemicals Agency (i-ECHA). (2025). Uhlaka Lokulawula kanye Neziqondiso Zedokhumenti Yokuphepha Yezithako Ezintsha Zokuhlobisa (i-IECIC/INCI).

Isixwayiso: Lo mbhalo uhloselwe kuphela izinjongo zolwazi kanye nezokubhekisela kwezobuchwepheshe. Izilinganiso zokusebenza, idatha yokuzinza, kanye nemiphumela yesilingo somtholampilo ekhonjwe lapha ibonisa izimo ezithile zelebhu kanye nesilingo. Lokhu okuqukethwe akubandakanyi iseluleko sezokwelapha, izimangalo zemikhiqizo yezimonyo, noma izincomo zezimali/zokutshalwa kwezimali maqondana nanoma yiliphi ibhizinisi elibhekiselwe noma uhlu lwezibambiso.