Seimwe yemishonga inonyanya kutsvagwa yekudzivirira kukwegura, simba remusika we retinol ratanga kuchinja. HBN, kambani yekuChina inodzivirira kukwegura, yakagadzira molekyuru itsva yekudzivirira kukwegura, Bakuchiol Ferulate, ichishandisa tekinoroji yekuvakazve mamorekuru.

Munguva pfupi yapfuura, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (JCD) , iyo magazini yepamusoro-soro yepasi rose yakaongororwa nevezera ravo nezveganda reganda, yakaburitsa tsvakurudzo itsva yakanyorwa nechikwata cheR&D cheShenzhen Hujia Technology, kambani huru yeHBN. Chikwata chekunze kwenyika chePersonal Care Insights chakaburitsawo zvakawanikwa musi wa6 Nyamavhuvhu, 2026: Chikwata cheR&D cheHBN chakabudirira kugadzira molekyuru itsva inonzi Bakuchiol Ferulate (yakapfupikiswa seBF).

Tsvagiridzo yezvekunaka kubva kuShenzhen HBN Technology inoratidza kuti bakuchiol ferulate — chinhu chitsva chemakemikari chakagadzirwa kubva ku bakuchiol ne ferulic acid — sechinhu chinotsiva retinol chinodzivirira kukwegura, chinoshivirirwa zvakanaka, uye chinoshanda panzvimbo pe retinol inodzivirira kukwegura. Vanyori veongororo iyi vanoti kushandiswa kwe retinol mukurapa kunoderedza makwinya kunowanzo deredzwa nekusagadzikana kwayo kwemakemikari uye kutsamwa kweganda rinonzwa kurwadza.

Bakuchiol inobva mumiti yakanyorwa nezvemhedzisiro yayo yemudumbu ichitevedzera iyo ye retinoids, sezvo mishonga yese iri miviri ichikonzera nzira dzakafanana dzekutaura kwemajini uye zvichivandudzawo ganda rakatorwa mifananidzo.

Kusiyana ne "bakuchiol + ferulic acid" physical blends inowanikwa zvakanyanya pamusika, BF inobatanidza zvinhu zviviri izvi pamwe chete kuburikidza ne covalent bonding kuti igadzire ester itsva based molecular architecture. Patent yePCT yepasi rose inofukidza tekinoroji iyi yakaburitswa zviri pamutemo munaKurume 2026, uye kukosha kwayo kwakatanga munaGunyana 2024. Vari mukati meindasitiri vanoti tsvakiridzo iyi inoratidza shanduko yeHBN kubva pakugadzira zvinhu zvakapedzwa kusvika pakuva mugadziri wemamorekuru anoshanda ezvizoro.

I. Sei Tichifanira Kugadzirazve Mamorekuru paBakuchiol?

Retinol nezvimwe zvinobva mairi zvagara zviri mishonga yemhando yepamusoro yekuderedza kukwegura kweganda uye zvinonakidzwa nekutengesa kwakasimba. Zvinogadzirisa nzira dzemajini makuru kuti zvidzivirire kukwegura kweganda uye kukurumidzisa kuchinja kwemasero ekeratinocyte. Midziyo yakawanda yekudzivirira kukora kweganda ine simba guru kubva kumakambani anosanganisira SkinCeuticals, Neutrogena, Murad, HBN naProya vanovimba nezvinhu zvemhando ye retinoid.

Kunyange zvakadaro, retinol haina kunyatsokwana. Kunyange hazvo simba rayo rekudzivirira kukwegura rakasimbiswa zvakanaka, ine zvipingamupinyi zvikuru: pasinei nekushanda kwayo kwepamusoro, inowanzokonzera erythema, desquamation, smear uye kukuvara kweganda. Kugona kwayo kuora kunokonzerwa nechiedza, kupisa uye okisijeni kuchiri dambudziko guru kune vanoongorora zverunako.

Dambudziko iri rehunyanzvi rave rakaoma kugadzirisa zvizere. Kugadzirisa retinol nemakemikari kuti iparadze sisitimu yayo yekubatanidza mabhondi maviri kunovandudza kugadzikana asi kunodzima mashandiro ayo ekudzivirira kukwegura. Nano-encapsulation ndeimwe nzira yekugadzirisa: over-tight encapsulation inodzivirira inoshanda kuti isashanduke kuita bioactive retinoic acid mukati meganda, nepo kusakwana kwe encapsulation kunogona kukonzera kutsamwa kukuru kweganda.

Saka Bakuchiol yakawana mukurumbira pasi rose semushonga unotsiva retinol. Muongororo yekiriniki yakadzorwa kwemavhiki gumi nemaviri (vanhu 44, 0.5% bakuchiol vs 0.5% retinol), bakuchiol yakawana kuvandudzika kwakafanana mukuwedzera pigmentation uye kuderedza makwinya nekuita kushoma kwakashata senge erythema uye peeling. Kunyangwe zvakadaro, chinzvimbo chebakuchiol semushonga unotsiva retinol chichiri kukakavadzana mukati mezvidzidzo. Ongororo yakarongeka ya2024 yakafukidza miedzo yekiriniki yevanhu gumi nemashanu yakaratidza kuti zvidzidzo gumi nezviviri zvacho zvaive miedzo isina kudzorwa yakavhurika uye gumi zvakashandiswa musanganiswa wezvinhu zvakawanda, zvichisiya mashandiro ayo ega achipokana zvakanyanya.

Kushivirira Kwevanhu uye Kuongorora Transcriptomic

Kukwanisa kushivirira vanhu kwakaongororwa muongororo yemazuva gumi nemana yekubatanidza patch test yaisanganisira vanhu vakuru vane hutano. Kuwanda kweBF kubva pa0.05% kusvika 1.0% kwakaenzaniswa nekuwedzera kweretinol kwe0.05%, 0.1%, uye 0.3%. Mafomula ese eBF akarongwa seasingatsamwisi zvichibva paMean Cumulative Irritancy Index (MCII) yavo, kusanganisira huwandu hwepamusoro hwe1.0%. Kusiyana neizvi, 0.3% retinol yakarongwa seyatsamwisa zvishoma, nepo huwandu hwakaderera hweretinol hwakaramba husingatsamwisi.

HBN yakashandisa imwe nzira. Panzvimbo pekushandisa zviri nyore zvirimwa zvisina kucheneswa, timu iyi yakaita shanduko yemazinga emamorekuru: ferulic acid, chinhu chinodzivirira mabhakitiriya, chinosanganiswa nebakichol kuburikidza ne esterification. Izvi zvinochengetedza nzira dzekutanga dzekurwisa kukwegura kwebakichol uku ichigadzirisa miganhu yayo yehunyanzvi.

II. Kuyerwa Kwekushanda kweMolecule Itsva Inodzivirira Kukwegura yeBakuchiol Ferulate

Ruzivo rwekuyedza rwakaburitswa muJCD pamwe nemagwaro epatenti akabatana anoratidza kushanda kwakasimba kweBF mumatanho akawanda ekuyedza:

• Kuyedzwa kwekugadzikana kwechiedza kwemazuva makumi mapfumbamwe: Pasi pemamiriro ezuva anoenderera mberi, BF inoramba iine anopfuura 86% yehupenyu hwayo hwekutanga — inenge 80% yemabasa ayo echinyakare akanyanya kupfuura retinol. Musiyano uyu wakakosha muhuwandu.
• Kuyedzwa kwekuora kwekupisa kwakakurumidza pa48 °C: BF inoratidza kuora kushoma; retinol inoramba iine 8% chete yemabasa ayo ekutanga.
• Mabhenefiti ekushandisa mari zvakanaka pakugadzira: Kugadzikana kwakanyanya kweBF kunoderedza zvakanyanya kurasikirwa kwezvinhu zvinoshanda mukati menguva yese yekugadzira uye yehupenyu hwesherufu. Mafomula eretinol akajairika anoda matanho ekuderedza anodhura anosanganisira kurongedza chiedza, nitrogen-purged filling uye encapsulation technologies, zvichiwedzera mari yekushandisa.
• Chiratidzo cheKukuvadza kwePhototoxicity (PIF): Kuongororwa kwe in vitro phototoxicity kunoburitsa PIF value ye 1.14 chete ye BF, zvichiratidza hunhu husina fototoxic. Retinol ine PIF ye 5.64, zvichiratidza njodzi huru ye phototoxic.
• Kuedzwa kwekutsamwa kwevanhu kwemazuva gumi nemana (MCII): Kuongororwa kwezvigamba zvakawanda kunosimbisa kuti BF (0.05 %‑1.0%) haina mhinduro dzekutsamwa kweganda uye yakarongwa kuti isatsamwise zvichienderana neMean Cumulative Irritancy Index. Kana tichienzanisa, 0.3% retinol inotoburitsa kutsamwa kudiki kweganda.
• Kufanana kwenzira yechinangwa: Transcriptomic profiles inodzosera coefficient yekubatana inosvika 0.89 pakati peBF neretinol. Makemikoro ese ari maviri anobatsira kufambira mberi kwemasero, kudzokororwa kweDNA uye nzira dzekugadzirisa DNA.
• Bvisa kubva pakushandiswa kwemajini anokonzera kuzvimba uye apoptotic gene: Kunyange zvazvo retinol ichibatsira kurwisa kukwegura, panguva imwe chete inowedzera nzira dzine chekuita nep53, apoptosis mediators, pro-inflammatory cytokines uye necroptosis associated genes. BF inodzivirira kukonzera izvi zvinokonzera kuzvimba uye kunzwa kwemuviri.

Kuenzanisa Kwekushanda: BF vs Retinol

Kusimbiswa kweKliniki kweBakuchiol Ferulate

Muchidzidzo chemazuva makumi maviri nemasere chevanhu vasina kusimba, chakaitwa nevanhu makumi matatu, 1.0% BF yakaratidza kuvandudzwa kweganda, kushanda zvakanaka kweganda uye kunyorova kweganda. Chikwata cheHBN cheR&D chinoti miedzo mikuru yekiriniki yevanhu inotora mavhiki masere kusvika gumi nemaviri iri kugadzirira, kuti iwedzere kushanda kwayo mukuderedza makunya akadzika.

III. Nguva ye "Mamorekuru Akagadziriswa Neunyanzvi"

Kugadziriswa kweHBN kwezvinhu zvakagara zviripo zvekushongedza hakusi kwega. Kugadziriswa kwemamorekuru kwezvinhu zviripo kwave chinhu chinonyanya kukosha muR&D pakati pemakambani makuru ekugadzira zvinhu zvekushongedza pasi rose:

• 2024Kambani huru yepasi rose yeGrant Industries yakatanga Bakuchiol Ester BCR, ichitanga kugadzirwa kwemamorekuru anobva ku bakuchiol.
• Kubvumbi 2026: Grant Industries, pamwe chete neBio Component Research, vakaburitsa Bakuchiol NAD+ BCR. Molekyuru itsva iyi inosanganisa bakuchiol ne niacin nemakemikari, zvichiita kuti isvike pakugadzirwa kwesimba kunokonzerwa neNAD+ uye kugadzirisa DNA.
• 2000-2003: Ascorbyl Retinoate: Inosanganisa vhitamini C (ascorbic acid) ne retinoic acid. Chikamu chevhitamini C chinoshanda se "chinodzivirira" chiri mumorekuru, chichisimbisa chimiro che retinoic acid uye chichideredza ma "cascade" ayo anokonzera kuzvimba.
• 1992-1995: Tocopheryl Retinoate: Shiseido inosanganisa vhitamini E (tocopherol) ne retinoic acid nemakemikari kuderedza kutsamwa kwe retinoic acid kunokonzerwa ne epidermal.
• 1993-1995: LHA (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, L'Oréal)Vaongorori veL'Oréal vanobatanidza chain yekabhoni refu yecapryloyl pasalicylic acid. LHA yakagadziriswa inoita basa rayo nemazvo uye inobvisa njodzi yekuputika kweganda.
• Vhitamini C inonyungudutsa mafuta (VC-IP / Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): Nikkol Chemical inoisa mapoka mana e-isopalmitate kumusana wevhitamini C, ichidzivirira mapoka ayo e-enolic hydroxyl anogona kuoxidation.
• Tetrahydrocurcumin: Curcumin iantioxidant ine simba asi ine ruvara rweyero rwakasimba. Vagadziri vezvinhu zvisina kugadzirwa vanoshandura curcumin kuburikidza nehydrogenation kuita tetrahydrocurcumin isina ruvara, isina mavara, inoshanda nesimba inodzivirira kupenya kwemifananidzo.

IV. Mamiriro Emusika Wemari

Muna Ndira 2026, Shenzhen Hujia Technology, kambani huru yeHBN, yakaendesa chikumbiro chayo cheHong-Kong Stock Exchange IPO. Kutumira chikumbiro kwacho kwakaguma muna Chikunguru 27 2026 mushure mekupera kwemwedzi mitanhatu yekuongorora. Musi waNyamavhuvhu 11, Hujia Technology yakaburitsa chiziviso cheveruzhinji ichisimbisa kuti chirongwa chayo cheIPO chiri kuramba chichienderera mberi sezvakarongwa.

Kwenguva yakareba, vane chekuita nemusika wemari vanga vachinetsekana nezvemhando dzerunako dzekuChina, dzakadai se "kuvimba zvakanyanya nekushambadzira, kusakwana kwekudyara muR&D" uye kuvimba zvakanyanya nevatengesi vezvinhu zvekunze. Kubva pamapatenti akaburitswa kusvika kune zvakabuda mumagazini, BF inoratidza kukura kwehunyanzvi. Kunyangwe zvakadaro, kutengeserana kunobudirira kwemorekuru iyi itsva kuchiri kuda kukunda zvipingamupinyi zvitatu zvikuru: kugadzira zvinhu zvakawanda zvinodhura, kunyoresa zvinhu zvitsva zvekuzora (INCI / IECIC), uye data renguva refu rekiriniki rinoratidza kushanda kwekuderedza makwinya.

Leecosmetic: Kushandisa zvigadzirwa kubva kumakambani ane mukurumbira pasi rose

References

1. Chikwata cheShenzhen Hujia Technology R&D. (2026). Kugadzira, Kunyora Zvinyorwa, uye Kuongororwa kweBakuchiol Ferulate seStable Retinoid Alternative . Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 25(8), e14208.

2.Ferrer, B. (2026, Nyamavhuvhu 6). Ongororo yakawana kuti Bakuchiol ferulate inoenderana nekushanda kwe retinol nekushaya simba kushoma kweganda . Kutarisirwa Kwemunhu.

3. Sangano reWorld Intellectual Property (WIPO). (2026, Kurume). Phenolic Ester Derivatives and Cosmetic Applications Its (PCT Patent Publication Nha. WO2026048123A1; Zuva rekutanga Gunyana 13, 2024).

4.Dhaliwal, S., et al. (2019). Kuongororwa kwevakuchiol neretinol, zvinotarisirwa kuitwa nevanorwara, uye zvisina kurongeka, kwakaitwa nevanoongorora miviri, kuti vakwanise kutora mifananidzo yechiso . British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296.

5. Chikwata Chekuongorora Sainzi Yeganda. (2024). Hunhu Hwenzira uye Uchapupu hweKliniki hweZvimwe Zvishandiso zvePhytochemical Retinoid: Ongororo Yakarongeka . International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 46(3), 312–325.

6. Hujia Technology Research Institute. (2026). In Vitro Phototoxicity (PIF) uye 14-Day Human Cumulative Patch Testing (MCII) yeBakuchiol Ferulate Formulations (Technical White Paper Nhamba. HT-RND-2026-04).

7. Grant Industries & Bio Component Research. (2026, Kubvumbi). Kuunza Bakuchiol NAD+ BCR: Niacin-Conjugated Meroterpenes yeKurarama Kwenguva Refu . Tekinoroji Yekuchengetedza Munhu Nhasi.

8. Duramazwi reZvinhu zveZvizoro zvePasirose & Bhuku reMirayiridzo. (2022). Data reKugadzira Zvizoro uye Kuchinja kweMakemikari reMaEsters eZvizoro (LHA, Ascorbyl Retinoate, Tocopheryl Retinoate) (chinyorwa chechi18). Dare reZvigadzirwa zveKuchengetedza Munhu.

9.Hong Kong Exchanges and Clearing Limited (HKEX). (2026, Nyamavhuvhu 11). Kuvandudzwa kweKambani paMain Board Application Status: Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd.

10.National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) / European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). (2025). Ronga reMitemo neGwaro rekuchengetedza Mitemo yeZvinhu Zvitsva zveZvizoro (IECIC/INCI).

Chiziviso: Gwaro iri rakaitirwa chete ruzivo uye hunyanzvi hwekutarisa. Zviyero zvekushanda, data rekugadzikana, uye mhedzisiro yemiedzo yekiriniki yataurwa pano zvinoratidza mamiriro chaiwo emurabhoritari uye emuyedzo. Izvi hazvisi mazano ekurapa, zvichemo zvezvigadzirwa zvekushongedza, kana mazano emari/kudyara maererano nechero sangano rekambani kana runyorwa rwezvibatiso.